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FAQ Content

How to make a simple backyard foundry for less than $20, for melting pop cans, and casting aluminum.

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WARNING:

Charcoal foundries can reach temperatures in excess of 1,000ºC, which is well above the melting point of hobbyists. This project should only be attempted with adequate knowledge and training, proper protective safety gear, and in a fire resistant area with adequate ventilation. The sparks flying from the foundry can ignite fires, and the fumes from burning dross can be toxic. Use caution and common sense. Use of this video content is at your own risk.

Music By: Scott & Brendo (“Feel It” – Instrumental) http://bit.ly/ScottBrendoiTunes

Project Inspired By:

This foundry is an original design, which comes after months of experimenting, and over 10 different prototypes. The functionality is founded on ideas I collected while searching the internet for different furnace designs.

Project History & More Info:

For this project I experimented with 10 different prototypes, to develop a reusable backyard foundry that melts aluminum soda cans easily and safely. I tested different refractory recipes, different containers, different setting for blowing air, and different types of makeshift crucibles.

I tried various ratios of portland cement, sand, perlite, plaster of paris, water, and even kitty litter. For containers, I experimented with clay pots, plastic buckets, no container, cinderblocks, and a galvanized steel pail.

I ended up favoring the galvanized steel pail, and a mix of 50% plaster of paris, and 50% play sand, by volume, which was inspired by a video by NightHawkInLight “How to Make a Soup Can Forge” http://bit.ly/IBSoupCanForge

Depending on where you get, or find, your materials the cost can range anywhere from $5-$25 per unit. With the materials I used, I was able to make 2 units for under $40 ($20 each). Even on the high end, this is probably one of the cheapest, reliable, backyard foundries that can be made.

I used mine to melt soda cans, and extract the aluminum for future metal casting projects. All the soda cans came from a local recycling depot. I bought back 30 lbs from the depot to avoid having to drink gallons and gallons of soda. I stored the ingots in various forms, which you can see in the video”Melting Cans With The Mini Metal Foundry” https://goo.gl/pTP1uG
The technique for making the sword in that video, and the gun in this video is called “Lost Foam Casting” and will be demonstrated in a future project video.

Blending the Rubber Ingredients:
The industrial process for making bicycle tires starts with raw synthetic rubber being fed into a milling machine. Rollers within the machine break up and soften the rubber. Other ingredients, such as mineral oil, zinc oxide, sulfur, carbon black and silica are then added to the rubber while it is being milled. These ingredients are mixed thoroughly with the rubber and make it more elastic and durable. Once completely mixed, the rubber is ready to be processed.
Casing Preparation:
Some of the rubber is then spread by a roller press to form a wide, thin, continuous sheet of rubber. The sheet is then fed into another machine to be bonded to woven nylon matting. The matting is removed from large roles and passed through the bonding machine along with the rubber sheet. The two are then welded together.

Casing Construction
A metal drum in a forming machine is then used to construct the layers of the tire. First, the nylon matting and rubber material is cut into properly sized strips that will become the casing of the tire. The strips are then placed around the drum so that the ends meet to form a complete ring. Two Kevlar cords are then wound onto the matting and completely around the drum. These will act as the rims of the tire. The drum is then expanded, forcing the Kevlar cords onto the rubber on the matting. The edges of the matting are then folded over the Kevlar cords.
Tread Construction
Two layers of hard and dense rubber are then sandwiched together and formed into a strip that is a precise width and thickness. A piece of this rubber strip is then laid onto the center of, and completely around, the casing. This material will eventually form the tread of the tire. The finished tire casing is now ready to be pressed and vulcanized.
Tire Pressing
The casing is next inserted into a press that will heat the rubber and form the tire in a process called vulcanization. This process first melts the rubber, fusing all of the parts of the tire together. Then the tire is pressed into a mold that creates the treads. As the rubber cools, it hardens into its final form. The finished tire can then be removed from the press.
Testing
A sampling from each batch of newly made tires is then tested. The road wear test simulates thousands of miles of wear on the tires. The puncture resistance and pressurization limit of the tires is also tested. If the sampling passes these tests, the tires are then packaged for sale.