Wholesale 100% Original 14″ rubber glove with cotton linning-rough finish sale to South Korea

FAQ Content

TOOL DEFINITIONS: DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted part which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, ”What the…??”

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use.

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. This was a time before pry bars.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. Also to open the end of a finger or thumb (blowout) thereby causing a lot of blood cleanup on walls, floors, etc.

MECHANIC’S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front d oor; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while wearing them.

DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling ”DAMMIT” at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

Video tutorial on how to polish aluminum with a mirror finish. As an example I am using a piece of aluminum square stock, but I have used this method many times before on valve covers, other aluminum engine components, motorcycle parts, throttle bodies, carburetors, and wheels. I have recently refinished the lips of the wheels for my car. If you do plan on refinishing a set of wheels, this is a very work intensive job so be sure you are ready for something like that. And depending on how much time you are willing to spending will spending on the final finish.

How to Remove the Paint or Clear Coat from Wheels: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsOxJqVHyI8

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-400 grit wet/dry sandpaper
-600 grit wet/dry sandpaper
-1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper
-1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper
-2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper
-metal polish
-soft clean cloth
-soap
-water
-bucket
-backer pad (rubber or foam)
-rubber gloves

Procedure:
-you will need to remove any coating if any on whatever you are finishing
-for my wheels, they did have a clear coat applies which needed to be stripped
-next ensure the item is clean, free of any dirt, grease, or debris which can jeopardize the polishing process
-depending on the aluminum’s finish will depend on what sandpaper is needed to start out with
-any porous casting will need is a very coarse grit to cut down the high spots such as 160 grit
-considering we are working with aluminum, there are health risks associated with the dust, so to reduce the dust, use wet sanding
-considering this aluminum is in good shape, I’ll use 400 grit in case the surface is mildly uneven.
-pre-soak the sandpaper, wet the piece down, and then continue to sand
-if it’s a flat piece, use a rubber backer
-for contoured areas, a foam pad can be used as a backer instead which is what I used for polishing my wheels
-this allows for even pressure across the surface, cutting down any high spots
-rinse the area continuously, along with the sandpaper
-closely inspect the piece to ensure the material is smooth and any surface imperfects or the machined surface has been remove
-any deep marks most likely won’t be removed, but you can lessen the damaged area
-damaged areas can be filled in my welding, but if you don’t have the equipment someone will need to weld it for you
-once satisfied, move up to 600 grit sandpaper
-considering almost all of the imperfections should have been smoothened out, we should only be focusing on the sanding marks and maybe any extremely light damage
-after you’re done with 600, you can then move up to 1000 grit
-then 1500
-and finally 2000
-rinse the area thoroughly with water and ensure it is dry
-using a clean cloth and your choice of metal polish, now we can work on the final shine
-if you are working with a larger area you can use a machine polisher, drill with a buffing pad, rotary tool, etc
-apply the polish to a cloth and work it into the surface
-depending on the polish, you may find it’ll turn black which is perfectly normal
-polish work times will vary
-once it becomes harder to work with, wipe away and apply more polish if need
-once you’re happy with the shine, apply a final coat of polish and finish up with a clean soft cloth
-the polished aluminum will last for a fairly long time, but this is still an exposed surface so it can suffer from water etching, staining, or any other exterior elements if it’s exposed to the weather
-in some applications, you can apply a sealer or coating which will help protect it
-for my wheels I have applied a nano coating which I plan to have more information on in a future video

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