Renewable Design for 26” Industrial rubber glove-smooth finish for Yemen Factories

FAQ Content

Video tutorial on the four different methods how to remove rust. Rust, also known as iron oxide is a chemical reaction between iron and oxygen or moisture that occurs on bare metal. Beyond steel, rust can also form on lower grades of stainless steel. It is very important to remove any rust from metal when applying a finish as it can jeopardize that finish by causing premature failure. The methods to remove rust are not limited to this video are beyond cleaning it by hand with just a wire brush, sandpaper, or an abrasive pad. Methods shown are mainly based for at home methods which can be done in the comforts of your own driveway.

Website: http://4diyers.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers
Google Plus: https://plus.google.com/+4DIYers
Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/
Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com
Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/

Tools/Supplies Needed:
-rust treatment (used in the video is Permatex Rust Dissolver Gel #80594)
-rubber gloves (used in the video is Permatex Black 5 mil Nitrile Disposable Gloves #08184)
-brush
-cup
-water
-white vinegar
-container
-abrasive pad
-sandblaster
-blasting media (glass bead, copper slag, walnut shells, steel shot, aluminum oxide, etc)
-air compressor
-safety glasses
-respirator
-drill
-angle grinder
-hand held sander
-rotary tool
-sanding disks or pads
-flap wheels
-wire wheels
-wire brush
-sandpaper
-grinding stone

Procedure:
Method #1
-using a store bought solution which is a form of rust treatment
-cleaning up any flaking paint, dirt, or loose rust using sandpaper or a wire brush
-shake the bottle to ensure the solution is mixed, poor into a cup or container, then applying using a brush or sponge
-do not allow it to come in contact with paint as it can cause damage
-it takes abut 15-20 minutes for the rust to be converted
-rinse with clean water
-allow it to dry and apply more coats if needed
-allow the metal to dry for 24 hours to ensure no moisture is trapped when applying a final finish
-this will neutralize old rust and prevent new rust from forming as well

Method #2
-using white vinegar and submerging the parts in a container
-clean up the piece slightly with either sandpaper or a wire brush
-allow it to soak for a day or two, depending on the severity of the rust
-once satisfied, rinse with water and give it a clean up using an abrasive pad
-ensure it has dried overnight so there isn’t any moisture trapped in the surface
-now you’re ready to apply a coating of your choice

Method #3
-using a sandblaster or some form of media blasting
-there is a variety of blasting equipment along with media available on the market
-normally a larger air compressor is required considering a sandblaster is a direct air loss
-this will remove the rust with minimal work, access any pitted areas as well, and strip areas to bare metal

Method #4
-using a mechanical method such as power tools
-there are a variety of tools that can be used such as a drill, angle grinder, hand held sander, rotary tool, etc
-with these tools, you will have a variety of attachments or options such as grinding disks, sanding disks, sanding pads, abrasive pads, wire wheels, grinding stones, flap wheels, etc
-in the video a hand held sander is used along with 180 grit sandpaper
-unfortunately due to the pitting, the sandpaper is unable to reach those lower areas
-sometimes an abrasive pad can tackle that, other times you will need to use a wire wheel

Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don’t forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!

© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

Here’s how to turn almost any styrofoam creation you can think up, into solid aluminum. It’s almost like magic!

Common materials in the Mini Metal Foundry

[✓] Clay Graphite Crucible: http://amzn.to/2bZ2ESu
[✓] Steel Pail: http://amzn.to/2bSuGAC
[✓] Plaster of Paris: http://amzn.to/2bZ0cf0
[✓] 2.5 Quart Bucket: http://amzn.to/2c0l3gk
[✓] 5 Quart Big Mouth Bucket: http://amzn.to/2bSvyoz
[✓] Heat Resistant Gloves: http://amzn.to/2bSv02d
[✓] 1-3/8” Hole Saw: http://amzn.to/2bSvo0z
[✓] 3” Hole Saw: http://amzn.to/2cib3kQ
[✓] 1” x 12” Steel Pipe: http://amzn.to/2cu3uGU

Endcard Links:

Projects: http://bit.ly/PLWeekendProjects
Experiments: http://bit.ly/PLExperiments
Life Hacks: http://bit.ly/PLLifeHacks
Mad Science: http://bit.ly/PLMadScience

See What Else I’m Up To:

Instagram: https://goo.gl/C0Q1YU
Facebook: http://bit.ly/FBTheKingOfRandom
Pinterest: http://bit.ly/pingrant

Business Inquiries: For sponsorship requests or business opportunities please contact me directly: http://www.youtube.com/thekingofrandom/about

WARNING:

Charcoal foundries can reach temperatures in excess of 1,000ºC, which is well above the melting point of hobbyists. This project should only be attempted with adequate knowledge and training, proper protective safety gear, and in a fire resistant area with adequate ventilation. The sparks flying from the foundry can ignite fires, and the fumes from burning dross can be toxic. Use caution and common sense. Be safe and have fun, but always remember that any project or experiment is at your own risk.

Music By: Jens Kiilstofte – “Morning Cruise” https://machinimasound.com/music/morning-cruise

Project Inspired By:

This project was inspired by 2 videos. If you check them out, please let them know that Grant Thompson sent you. Thanks! First was a “lost foam casting” tutorial by “The Art of Weapons” (http://bit.ly/IBRamboneSlingshot) and a Rubber Band gun designed by “RBGuns” (http://bit.ly/IBM9RubberBandGun). I modified the template from RBGuns to make the styrofoam mold.

Project History & More Info:

The gun is solid aluminum, made from melted down soda cans.

I spent over 100 hours of time, and 7 styrofoam prototypes to make this video. About a third of the time was spent filing and sanding the gun. Each time I poured a casting for the gun, the trigger guard wouldn’t complete all the way through, so I kept making new styrofoam guns, modifying the designs slightly until it worked.

Once I got a fairly clean casting, I put 2 days into filing down rough points, and sanding them smooth.

The gun could use a little more work, and it’s not perfect, but this experiment was mainly a proof of concept that nearly anything you can imagine can be made fairly easily with the “lost foam casting” technique. Overall, I really am happy with the gun though! It weighs 556 grams, and is really quite smooth to feel.

For future projects, I plan to work more with green sand casting. I believe it will leave a nicer finish overall and won’t require as many prototypes to get it right Instead of foam, wood plugs can be used to make the molds, or even real weapons for that matter.