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FAQ Content

How to install a shower preslope http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aKY2TjNUpYI&feature=c4-overview-vl&list=PLE025D61CF6E3515B
How to install mud http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJwKZCKWlOk&feature=c4-overview-vl&list=PLE025D61CF6E3515B
How to mix mud and install shower mud method 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIxiRk1KPzk&feature=c4-overview-vl&list=PLE025D61CF6E3515B
How to weatherproof a shower http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLiB6hq5lQ3h3Tieji67lN4lrGPhrLwngf
When installing a tile shower, whether it be ceramic, marble travertine or any other tile product, a mud base will be required. Mud also known as deck mud, is a mixture of sand and Portland cement mixed to a ratio that will create a solid foundation for the tile which will be installed on it. The deck mud is mixed with water to a dump consistence which will allow the deck mud to hold its shape when pressed into a ball. The mud must be pitcher towards the drain so that a slope of at least ¼” per foot is achieved. The ratio of sand and Portland cement is usually 4:1 or 5:1. I usually use “Quikrete” sand topping mix, which as far as I know, has a ratio which is a little richer than needed, but is suitable for a shower pan. The method I employ to install my mud in shower pan, is to create a level and flat perimeter around the base of the shower walls which is at the correct height in relation to the drain, and then fill the middle part of the shower pan screeding down to the drain with the proper pitch. The mud is shaped with a wooden trowel, steel trowel, level and other pieces of straight wood lengths cut to the required lengths. In this video I demonstrate the technique I use to install a shower mud pan base. There are other methods that can be used, but this is the way I have installed hundreds of shower bases. How to grout a ceramic tile floor, step by step, this video is intended to be a guideline on how to grout a ceramic tile floor. This is how I do it and what I have found to be the simplest and quickest way to grout You will need a rubber float, a couple of buckets, a margin trowel for mixing your grout, and some rubber gloves. Mix your grout according to the direction of the grout you are using. Once the grout is ready, I find the best way to grout a tile floor is to spread the grout with the rubber float while holing it at a very low angle to the floor and pushing the grout into the lines while applying a good amount of pressure. Once you have filled the lines go over the same area with the float at a very high angle in order to remove all the excess grout and leave the grout lines filled with the proper amount of grout. Let stand for a period of time, then with a grout sponge and a bucket of clean cold water, work the grout lines with the sponge. The sponge should have as little water as possible not dripping or soaked. At this point the goal is to shape the grout lines not clean the tile. Once this is accomplished, the next step is to clean the tile. Again with a damp sponge and clean water, place the sponge on the tile, with even pressure pull the sponge in one direction only, lift the sponge flip to the other side repeat, rinse and repeat until the grouted section is clean. Once the whole floor is grouted and cleaned in this fashion, wait until the floor dries to a haze, and rinse again in the same manner.
I hope anyone that watches this finds it helpful.
All tile installed by Sal DiBlasi, Elite-tile Company, in the Boston North Shore area. This video contains affiliate links, which means I will receive a small commission if you click on the product link.

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TOOL DEFINITIONS: DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted part which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, ”What the…??”

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use.

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. This was a time before pry bars.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. Also to open the end of a finger or thumb (blowout) thereby causing a lot of blood cleanup on walls, floors, etc.

MECHANIC’S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front d oor; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while wearing them.

DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling ”DAMMIT” at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.