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The Event Is Coming Soon – Etheric Implants and Entities ARE “Human Nature” Part 3a

You don’t die if you fall in the water, you only die if you don’t swim.

-Unknown

In the previous installments of this series, we have gone over the history, the progression, the motives and some systems of the etheric parasitic grid in the energetic field, as well as basic energy work in how to energetically protect and clean, and techniques to help with direct interference. In this installment, I will be describing in detail the systems, parasites, devices and implants I have seen in the body, as well as the function, symptoms, and techniques to extract said devices. If you have not read parts 1 and 2, this article will be alluding to information and awareness fully explored and explained therein, and they can be found here.

When first beginning to become aware of the parasitic construct, often times the parasites will feel or look like black blobs or bruises in the body. The descriptions provided below will be the core aspect of each implant, so may not seem familiar to someone beginning to explore this new awareness. When I say core aspect, what I mean is the conscious “body” of the parasite, device or implant. The black “blob” seen in the body originally is more often than not a cloud of miasma, or residue that the implant has been spreading around itself, almost like an octopus darkening the water around it with ink. Clearing out miasma is as simple as bringing down a vacuum tube from Source, and cleaning out anything that is not anchored into the body. Often times, this will clean out the dark energy, or “smoke” in the body, giving a clear view to observe the core aspect of the systems in the body. Techniques such as EFT tapping taught in the Extraction/Protection Protocol Prep video are an easy way to clean out the miasma and get much better flow in the body without knowing or trying the actual energy work, and is always a recommended place to start on your journey.

When first beginning the work of clearing the body, a few things need to be gone over as a foundation of understanding within. First, most people who are not familiar with the sensations of chi or are desensitized from sensations in the body, often times expect an incredibly intense tactile feeling, such as having an electrical shock run up the spine when activating the chi. While this is possible with practice and daily building of foundations, if in the beginning, you are expecting to feel something like this, you are going to completely miss the subtle, quiet, underlying movement of the chi flowing through the meridians of the body.

Activating chi initially is looking inside the stillness.

Source:

http://unleashingnaturalhumanity.com/2017/04/14/etheric-implants-and-entities-are-human-nature-part-3/

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Learn how to build an outdoor patio bar with an acid stained concrete top. In part 1 Pete will show you how to build a concrete bar top mold, pour concrete, create a trowel finish, and seal a concrete bar top. For the complete and free bar plans go to

For more info, project photos, and downloadable plans check out:

http://www.diypete.com/patiotable

Download Plans: https://gumroad.com/l/patiobar

*Note that these are affiliate links, meaning that when you buy something that is recommended below, it helps support the Channel. Thanks in advance!

*Tools Needed
Power Drill – http://amzn.to/1OxMfnt
Orbital Sander – http://amzn.to/1VUVNYy
Circular Saw – http://amzn.to/1OxNa7k
Table Saw (optional) – http://amzn.to/1X7Eje5
12″ Miter Saw (optional) – http://amzn.to/1VUVo8s
Jig Saw – http://amzn.to/1ZGFCTf
Bolt Cutter – http://amzn.to/1OxNcfe
Concrete Trowel – http://amzn.to/1LwkIAe

Measure and then cut the Melamine wood to size using a circular saw. Use a jig saw if needed to cut hard to reach areas. Cut the sidewalls for the concrete bar mold using a table saw or circular saw. I cut mine to 3 3/4 inches wide. This gave me a nice bold looking concrete top that was a total of 3 inches thick. The extra 3/4 of an inch is to compensate for the base of the mold.

Layout the sidewalls of the mold to make sure everything fits correctly. Attach the sidewalls to the base using 1 1/2 inch drywall screws. Pre-drill prior to inserting the screw.

Use a knife to cut 1 1/2 inch thick foam for the knockout in your mold. It will be slightly smaller than the mold. There is a 1 inch channel around the entire perimeter between the foam and the sidewalls. This will allow concrete to form around the foam and to create a lip. Your concrete counter will look like it is 3 inches thick throughout. However, it will only be 1 1/2 inches thick where the foam is placed. Thus, you’ll reduce the weight of the countertop dramatically and will not have to purchase as much concrete.

The foam I used had a metallic backing. Please note that any foam will work. I bought smaller project sized pieces and then used packing tape to piece them together. I also sealed all the edges of the foam with clear packing tape so the foam would release from the concrete easily.

Cut re-enforcement for the concrete down to size. It typically comes in 4×8 sheets at Home Depot. Seal the joints in your mold with 100% silicon caulk. Use silicon to adhere the foam to the base of the mold as well. Let the silicon dry before adding the concrete.

Mix up your concrete 1 bag at a time. I’d recommend using Quikrete Counter Top mix. If you can’t find countertop mix, Quikrete 5000 will work. The countertop mix consists of finer aggregate and is much easier to create a perfect hard trowel finish with. Mix the concrete with a hoe or a shovel. Add water until it is about a cookie dough type consistency.

Add the concrete to the mold. Use a shovel, bucket, or your hands to pack it into the counter top mold. Use your hands and fingers to pack the concrete into all areas of the mold. Make sure to wear rubber gloves whenever handling concrete. Fill the mold half full with concrete. Then place the re-enforcement in the concrete. Make sure it is as flat as possible. Then continue adding concrete until the mold is full.

Screed the concrete using a 2×4. Simply move the 2×4 in a saw-like motion back and forth. This will level out the concrete. Fill in low spots as needed and screed from one side to another until the concrete in the mold is as level as possible. Use a trowel to smooth the concrete for the first time. If you have a float, you can use it to help bring more “cream” to the surface which helps make the hard troweling process a bit easier.

This is one of the most important steps. I like to compare it to watching the grill so you get a perfect medium rare steak for dinner. Except with this, it takes a lot longer and you don’t get to eat a steak. Anyhow, let the concrete firm up for a few hours and check it every half hour because curing time will depend on temperature, humidity, the amount of water used, and the concrete mix. Use a finger to test the firmness. If it leaves a small dimple and you don’t get any water or concrete on your finger it is ready to remove the sidewalls and trowel.

Slowly remove the sidewalls. If the concrete sags make sure to put the sidewalls back on and to wait longer. Once the sidewalls are off you can smooth out the edges and fill any bugholes with extra concrete…
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Pete Sveen
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