OEM/ODM China 24″ rubber glove with cotton linning-smooth finish for Nicaragua Factories

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The complete process of how to build a concrete table without any specialty tools. It’s an affordable way to make high end and beautiful furniture. For the complete tutorial and materials list check out DIYPETE.com. Please note that

For more info, project photos, and downloadable plans check out:

http://www.diypete.com/how-to-build-a-concrete-table/

The buffet table I made is 17″wide by 52″ long by 1.5″ thick. Here is a diagram showing how I made the mold.

Cut the bottom of the mold out of melamine using a circular saw
This piece should be the exact width and length you’d like the concrete table to be.

Cut the strips that will border the bottom piece
If you want a 1.5″ thick concrete slab, add 3/4″ to the strips so they are 2.25″ tall. This accommodates for the bottom of the mold.

Assemble the sides of the mold.
Attach using 1 5/8 inch black drywall screws about every 8-12 inches. Drill a pilot hole to help it go in easier. Make sure to drill in from the side as evenly as possible.

Complete the mold
Once assembled, the mold will look like the photo below. You will now have a structure which concrete can be poured in. Note — the actual top of your concrete table will be very smooth because it will cure against the smooth and flat melamine surfaces. The part that you screed and trowel later on will actually be the bottom side. You will flip the mold once the project has cured.

Caulk the creases in your mold.
In the video I use a squeeze tube of 100% silicon caulk. You can also use a caulk gun. Then run a caulk tool to smooth it out. You can also use painters tape to get an even caulk line as pictured below.

Cut Re-enforcement
Once the caulk has cured, go ahead and cut the re-enforcement to size using a bolt cutter. If your table is 52″ long by 17″ in width, cut the metal wiring to about 50″ by 15″. It will leave about an inch of play on each side. Then use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to thoroughly clean the mold, making sure all sawdust and particles are out of the mold.

It’s time to mix up the concrete. Follow the directs on the bag to see how much water they recommend adding. I like to pour some water into the tub prior to the concrete to minimize dust. Wear a dust mask for this process because the particles are not good to breathe. Mix 1 or 2 bags of concrete at a time. To stir up the concrete use a small shovel or garden hoe. I like to mix it to a peanut butter consistency.

Pack Concrete
Take a handful of concrete (wearing your rubber gloves of course), and start packing the concrete into the mold. *Don’t forget to make sure your work table is as level as possible prior to packing the concrete.

Add Re-enforcement
Once the mold is filled up a little more than half way you’ll want to add the re-enforcement. Simply put the re-enforcement in place and then finish packing the rest of the mold with concrete.

Fill and screed
Fill the mold with concrete until it is full. Take an old 2×4 or straight piece of wood and screed off the excess to level out the concrete. Move the 2×4 in a sawing motion. Continue back and forth across the entire mold (multiple times) and fill in any low spots with extra concrete. Check that your work table is still level. You can always shim if needed.

Remove concrete from the mold
Remove all the drywall screws. Next, take a chisel and slowly pry the wood side away from the concrete. Make sure not to let the chisel (or flathead screwdriver ) touch the concrete.

Flip the concrete and remove top of mold
Slowly flip the concrete. It helps to have two people. I like to take a few shop rags or foam to put under the concrete so when it is flipped vertically there is something for it to rest softly on. Continue flipping the piece and rest it on a few spare boards. Resting it on boards that are evenly spaced will allow the piece to dry thoroughly.

Sand concrete
Use an orbital sander to smooth the piece. You will expose a few more bug holes but that is okay. Run the sander on the sides and corners as well. The top edges will be pretty rough. You’ll fill in the rough area with portland cement after this process.

Apply Sealer
Use a clean rag and get any remaining dust off the concrete. Next, find a new rag and use it to apply a stone or concrete sealer. These can be found at a local hardware store. Read the instructions to find out the best way to apply the sealer. Once the sealer drys I like to wax the piece.
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Pete Sveen
1627 W Main Street Suite 182
Bozeman, Montana 59715

JeffJag is a Denver, CO Abstract Artist who posts HD Time-Lapse and Stop Motion videos of his artwork every other Friday. Daily updated Art Blog – http://artblog.jeffjag.com

This one has been a while in the making, and it’s not the last video I’ll have for this drawing. This is animation progress 13, recorded on September 6th and 7th, 2013.

MATERIALS:
The drawing is called Amazing Realization, and it is an enormous pencil drawing on a 22″ x 30″ sheet of fine heavy bristol drawing paper. In the drawing, I use many 0.3mm mechanical pencils. I use mostly to HB and 2B graphite leads. I occasionally use paper shaders and erasers to blend the pencil, but again, the vast majority of it is hand shaded using a very careful amount of hand pressure.

TECHNIQUES:
Whenever I’m holding the pencil much further back from the tip, I’m allowing the pencil’s own weight to press down on the paper which makes for very soft shading. I am also not a robot drawing robot, so I use erasers. I use the white plastic erasers that work so well with drafting pencils, and the rubber gray kneadable erasers you can form into shapes. I like those for lightening areas which have been filled in too dark, and to keep my pencils from rolling off my drawing desk when I’m not using them. I use a horse hair eraser brush to remove eraser shavings from the drawing without smudging my work. I sometimes use a latex glove on my left hand to keep the oil of my hand from getting on the paper, and for a similar reason, I put a sheet of paper under my drawing hand to keep from smudging parts I’ve already drawn while shading.

THE STORY:
Last year I started a Kickstarter to make prints of my new drawing, Amazing Realization, for people who wanted them. This is quite an epic project which began in mid November 2012 and continues months into 2013. On January 1st 2013 the Kickstarter was successfully funded at over 200% of my goal. Now I’m just working away at finishing the drawing and doing what I can to show the making-of process along the way. The backers get email updates with new photos showing the progress of the drawing the night I work on it, and I release the photo updates of the drawing daily on my Art blog, http://artblog.jeffjag.com, my facebook fan page http://www.facebook.com/jeffjag.art and my twitter feed @jeffjag (all three feature the same daily content). Check out the kickstarter page and watch the video of me announcing the project on that page. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/112182510/super-detailed-abstract-pencil-art-amazing-realiza

TIME SPENT:
I started this drawing in November 2012 and I’m in the last stretch of drawing in of this video. At the time this video was posted, frames have been captured up through video 15, and half of 16. So there’s a lot left, but it’s getting close. For this video alone (number THIRTEEN), I captured 5,525 frames. Each of these frames was taken between 1 and 10 seconds apart. It varies due to the nature of stop motion and the complexities of drawing with one hand and capturing frames with the other hand. I’ll have a rough estimate by the time I post the final time-lapse project video. Subscribe to my channel and you’ll get it delivered right to you from the friendly YouTube folks.

SOUNDTRACK – Jokes About Puppets by JeffJag
The sounds were created in the Moog Animoog app on iOS and mixed together in the built-in Animoog 4-track audio editor. All composing, recording, sequencing, and mixing was done by myself specifically for this stop motion time-lapse video. It is only available in this video since that is it’s exclusive purpose and why I created it.

TIME-LAPSE and STOP MOTION
Stop motion and Time-Lapse are used at different intervals during this video. The first two videos in the series were shot at a frame every 5-8 seconds. Later on, I decided to get out my remote shutter release and you can see me holding the button in my left hand as I draw with my right hand. Starting with video 10, I use a wireless shutter release which is super awesome.

WHAT’S WITH THE LATEX GLOVE?
I use a latex glove on my left hand while I draw to keep the oil of my hand from getting on the paper. I place a white sheet of paper under my right hand so I can shade without smudging what I’ve already done. Because I have to move my right hand while drawing, this keeps my hand free to move over areas I may have already drawn without smearing the work.