High reputation for Rubber glove-household-L to Buenos Aires Manufacturer
Short Description:
Sanitation glove, made of 100% natrual latex, length 32-36cm, textured palm for anti-slip, waterproof, anti acid and alkali, non-toxic. Mainly used for food processing, hotels, family kitchen, etc. Color: red, yellow, orange, rose, nude, etc.
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We stick to our enterprise spirit of "Quality, Efficiency, Innovation and Integrity". We aim to create more value for our customers with our rich resources, advanced machinery, experienced workers and excellent services High reputation for
Rubber glove-household-L to Buenos Aires Manufacturer, We welcome new and old customers from all walks of life to contact us for future business relationships and mutual success
Sanitation glove, made of 100% natrual latex, length 32-36cm, textured palm for anti-slip, waterproof, anti acid and alkali, non-toxic.
Mainly used for food processing, hotels, family kitchen, etc. Color: red, yellow, orange, rose, nude, etc.
FAQ Content
Be cautious when holding key components that have sensitive contact areas. If you want to be extra cautious you can use tech grade ESD gloves. I recommend ESD Nitrile gloves that have microtextured fingertips that provide excellent grip on all surfaces. 100% nitrile gloves contain no natural rubber or silicone and meet stringent requirements for particles and extractables. In regards to handling try not to directly handle PCB or contact points. For a graphics card try to handle it from the corners or the heatsink. For a motherboard use the corners / sides. If you do not want to use full gloves you can also consider finger ESD cods. If you use your bare hands just have common sense and keep in mind when the contacts are.
I mistakenly refer to the measurement on the gloves thickness as millimeters, when in fact it is milli-inches. MIL stands for milli-inches and MM stands for millimeters. My bad. Though, that doesn’t change anything I say as inaccurate regarding smaller number = thinner glove.
ESD Nitrile Gloves:
http://amzn.to/2rbxvVN
If you’re trying to prevent fingerprints, wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water, paying particular attention to scrubbing the pads on your fingers. Dry them off well. Then handle the components by the edges, as I demonstrate in all of my computer building videos. If you happen to see a fingerprint, stop. Go wash your hands again! This is a much better plan than using any kind of glove.
Remember, handle all parts by the edges and there is no place for fingerprints to be left behind! I demonstrate this in every single computer build video I’ve ever done.
If you’re trying to prevent cuts, these gloves are all too thin to provide any protection from that. Work slower and more carefully to avoid injury. Or put on band-aids prematurely in areas of your hands that you feel you are most prone to be cut.
Video editing software used to create this video:
Cyberlink PowerDirector 15 Ultimate:
https://www.cyberlink.com/products/powerdirector-ultra/
Screen captures by Camtasia Studio 9:
https://www.techsmith.com/camtasia.html
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Video slideshow that outlines how to repair sheet metal. This demonstration was done on a lawn tractor mower deck, but the same principles can be applied to auto body work on vehicles. Most automotive body panels do use a thinner gauge steel, so when welding, more care will have to be taken to reduce the amount of heat distortion. In the video I did use a flux core mig welder, but an argon unit can be used as well.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-angle grinder
-angle grinder cutting disks
-angle grinder flap wheels
-locking pliers
-mig welder
-welding shield
-welding gloves
-hammer
-paint marker
-wire brush
-220 grit sandpaper
-paint
-paint brush
-safety glasses
-replacement metal
-propane torch
-adjustable wrench
-clean cloth
-degreaser
Procedure:
-determine to what extent the metal is damaged
-remove the rusty soft/thin areas will allow for a solid area to weld the patch to and also reduces the chance of having the welder burn through the existing steel
-cut out the damaged area using a grinder equipped with cutting disks
-start by forming the new metal to replace the damaged area
-sometimes it is easier to form the replacement metal first before cutting out the damaged area, but the damaged area should still be in reasonable condition to copy the shape or contours
-to form the replacement pieces I used a couple concrete blocks, along with some wood for forming, along with the assistance of a hammer, adjustable wrench, and propane torch
-forming metal will vary depending on what you are trying to achieve
-for my repair I first bent the metal patches, then made relief cuts using the angle grinder with cutting disks so I could form multiple contours
-once finished forming the patches, ensure they fit and remove excessive material from the original panel if needed (it’s better to have more newer metal in a patch repair)
-use the flap wheel for the angle grinder to remove any existing rust or paint to prepare for welding
-fit the patch into place, use locking pliers to hold it into place
-ground the mig welder onto the piece, select a proper heat range
-first tack the replacement piece into place, applying a tack weld every one to two inches
-adjust piece when needed using a hammer, ensuring the edge lines up correctly
-once the piece is held in, then continue with short welds about one inch in length in various areas
-do no run one continuous weld as this will cause warpage
-allow the metal to cool if need
-once the welding has finished, use the flap wheel on the angle grinder to smoothen out the welds
-finally to finish up, for my repair I used a wire brush to clean the mower deck removing any loose rust and paint
-finish up with 220 grit sandpaper to smoothen out the surface
-I wiped down the mower deck with a clean cloth and degreaser
-then applied a farm equipment paint using a brush to the whole mower deck
The cuts in the one rounded patch allows for the piece to be bent into two different directions to match the contour of the mower deck.
Grind the paint off around the area where the patch will be welded to. This will ensure that welder is able to arc on the existing surface properly.
The tack welds hold the piece in place and allow me to align the patch to the existing surface. For the welding, I used a small flux core mig welder.
Running small/short (approx. 1″ length) welding beads reduces the amount of distortion within the sheet metal which is caused by excessive heat. This will have to be adjusted accordingly depending on the gauge/thickness of steel.
For grinding down the welds I used the angle grinder with standard grinding disc for the higher areas and a flap disc to smoothen the surface.
For paint, I used low gloss black farm equipment painted which I brushed on.
Credit:
Music:
Zap Beat – Kevin MacLeod (http://incompetech.com/) Licensed under Creative Commons “Attribution 3.0″ http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/
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