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In this brief video I discuss how I like to remove the reeded edge of a coin ring in the event of existing knicks and/or damage done to the reeds during the forging process; as well as how to round out the thinner, rough cut side of my coin rings. Props to Dave for “coining” the term “coin ring lips”!

To pick up a Set of the Finishing and Polishing Mandrels shown in the video, click on this link: http://etsy.me/1UcRSJ1

* For a complete list of the highest quality coin ring-making tools, visit my Shop page at:

http://www.CoinRingUSA.com

The advantage to using the Rounding, Finishing, and Polishing mandrel Set is that as the ring is held on tightly to the tapered mandrel that’s spinning while being attached to your power drill; it acts much like a small lathe, providing a much more uniform finish to the ring than can be achieved with either hand-sanding, using a nail buffing file, a steel round-file, or even a small rotary tool such as a Dremel.

*** TO BEGIN ***

1.) Determine which size tapered rubber mandrel fits your completed coin ring, and slide the coin ring on to it.

2.) Place the mandrel bit into your power drill and tighten.

3.) Adjust the coin ring until it’s well-balanced with no “wobbling” on the mandrel with your power drill on, and then expand the mandrel by tightening the Stainless Steel Phillips head set screw at the top which holds the coin ring securely in place.

4.) Begin on the outer edge of the coin ring with the coarser 100 Grit sandpaper and work your way around to the inner edge of the coin ring; making sure that ONLY the corner tip of the sandpaper is making contact with the unfinished inner, top, and outer edges of your coin ring to prevent damage to the rings’ detail. Take your time with this step; especially when you’re first starting out.

5.) Continue to work the inner, top, and outer edges of whichever side of your coin ring you’re working on using the finer Grits of sandpaper as you go; finishing with “0000” Steel Wool. You can also use the steel wool and LIGHTLY go over the inner and the outer detail of the coin ring before you either polish it with a jeweler’s cloth or after you’ve put a patina (antique-looking) finish on the ring.

6.) The final step is to use a jeweler’s cloth to both buff and finish-polish your coin ring.

Your coin ring will now have a highly-smoothed, rounded, and polished edge on both the reeded and the non-reeded side that is not often seen on coin rings!

Other materials needed: a power drill, 3 different grits of sandpaper; (I use 200 Grit, 500 Grit, and 1,000 Grit), some “0000” Steel Wool, and a jeweler’s polishing cloth to complete this process. Those items can be purchased from Amazon.com; at a big box store like Home Depot, or any local hardware store inexpensively.

*** SAFETY FIRST ***
- Always wear safety glasses and work gloves.
- Always use caution when working with any power tools and electricity.
- Keep fingers, long hair, and loose clothing away from any fast moving parts.

Description: “How to Remove the “Coin Ring Lips”, Damaged Reeds, and Smooth the Rough Coin Ring Edges”

Video tutorial on how to polish aluminum with a mirror finish. As an example I am using a piece of aluminum square stock, but I have used this method many times before on valve covers, other aluminum engine components, motorcycle parts, throttle bodies, carburetors, and wheels. I have recently refinished the lips of the wheels for my car. If you do plan on refinishing a set of wheels, this is a very work intensive job so be sure you are ready for something like that. And depending on how much time you are willing to spending will spending on the final finish.

How to Remove the Paint or Clear Coat from Wheels: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsOxJqVHyI8

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-400 grit wet/dry sandpaper
-600 grit wet/dry sandpaper
-1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper
-1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper
-2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper
-metal polish
-soft clean cloth
-soap
-water
-bucket
-backer pad (rubber or foam)
-rubber gloves

Procedure:
-you will need to remove any coating if any on whatever you are finishing
-for my wheels, they did have a clear coat applies which needed to be stripped
-next ensure the item is clean, free of any dirt, grease, or debris which can jeopardize the polishing process
-depending on the aluminum’s finish will depend on what sandpaper is needed to start out with
-any porous casting will need is a very coarse grit to cut down the high spots such as 160 grit
-considering we are working with aluminum, there are health risks associated with the dust, so to reduce the dust, use wet sanding
-considering this aluminum is in good shape, I’ll use 400 grit in case the surface is mildly uneven.
-pre-soak the sandpaper, wet the piece down, and then continue to sand
-if it’s a flat piece, use a rubber backer
-for contoured areas, a foam pad can be used as a backer instead which is what I used for polishing my wheels
-this allows for even pressure across the surface, cutting down any high spots
-rinse the area continuously, along with the sandpaper
-closely inspect the piece to ensure the material is smooth and any surface imperfects or the machined surface has been remove
-any deep marks most likely won’t be removed, but you can lessen the damaged area
-damaged areas can be filled in my welding, but if you don’t have the equipment someone will need to weld it for you
-once satisfied, move up to 600 grit sandpaper
-considering almost all of the imperfections should have been smoothened out, we should only be focusing on the sanding marks and maybe any extremely light damage
-after you’re done with 600, you can then move up to 1000 grit
-then 1500
-and finally 2000
-rinse the area thoroughly with water and ensure it is dry
-using a clean cloth and your choice of metal polish, now we can work on the final shine
-if you are working with a larger area you can use a machine polisher, drill with a buffing pad, rotary tool, etc
-apply the polish to a cloth and work it into the surface
-depending on the polish, you may find it’ll turn black which is perfectly normal
-polish work times will vary
-once it becomes harder to work with, wipe away and apply more polish if need
-once you’re happy with the shine, apply a final coat of polish and finish up with a clean soft cloth
-the polished aluminum will last for a fairly long time, but this is still an exposed surface so it can suffer from water etching, staining, or any other exterior elements if it’s exposed to the weather
-in some applications, you can apply a sealer or coating which will help protect it
-for my wheels I have applied a nano coating which I plan to have more information on in a future video

Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don’t forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!

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