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2017 Volkswagen Jetta

http://www.ontariovolkswagen.com/VehicleSearchResults?stockOrVIN=V170516

Ontario Volkswagen: Servicing Ontario CA near Claremont, Montclair, San Bernardino, Victorville, California
2017 Volkswagen Jetta 1.4T SE – Stock#: V170516 – VIN#: 3VWDB7AJ3HM366455

http://www.ontariovolkswagen.com/

For more information on this vehicle and our full inventory, call us at (866) 874-0615

Ontario VW
701 S. Kettering Drive
Ontario CA 91761

2017 Volkswagen Jetta 1.4T SE Gray 1.4L TSI 38/28 Highway/City MPGAwards:* 2017 IIHS Top Safety Pick+ Reviews:* Spacious backseat and big trunk deliver the roominess of a big sedan with the footprint of a compact car. Four-cylinder engines are fun and fuel-efficient. Tech interface, touchscreen and navigation are fully featured and intuitive to operate. Source: Edmunds* Cargo capacity on par with compact crossovers; upscale interior; responsive and fuel-efficient engine; sophisticated ride; standard all-wheel drive and extra ground clearance compared to the regular Golf wagon. Source: Edmunds
ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE KIT -inc: booster cables warning triangle LED flashlight multi-tool work gloves PVC tape blanket poncho whistle cable ties and bandages,LUGGAGE NET -inc: For securing items in the cargo area,MONSTER MATS RUBBER MAT KIT (SET OF 4) -inc: Heavy Duty Trunk Liner w/CarGo Blocks,Turbocharged,Front Wheel Drive,Power Steering,ABS,4-Wheel Disc Brakes,Brake Assist,Aluminum Wheels,Tires – Front Performance,Tires – Rear Performance,Conventional Spare Tire,Sun/Moonroof,Generic Sun/Moonroof,Heated Mirrors,Power Mirror(s),Integrated Turn Signal Mirrors,Rear Defrost,Intermittent Wipers,Variable Speed Intermittent Wipers,Daytime Running Lights,AM/FM Stereo,CD Player,Satellite Radio,MP3 Player,Bluetooth Connection,Auxiliary Audio Input,HD Radio,Smart Device Integration,Steering Wheel Audio Controls,Bucket Seats,Heated Front Seat(s),Driver Adjustable Lumbar,Pass-Through Rear Seat,Rear Bench Seat,Adjustable Steering Wheel,Trip Computer,Power Windows,Telematics,Leather Steering Wheel,Keyless Entry,Power Door Locks,Keyless Start,Cruise Control,A/C,Premium Synthetic Seats,Driver Vanity Mirror,Passenger Vanity Mirror,Engine Immobilizer,Traction Control,Stability Control,Front Side Air Bag,Blind Spot Monitor,Cross-Traffic Alert,Tire Pressure Monitor,Driver Air Bag,Passenger Air Bag,Front Head Air Bag,Rear Head Air Bag,Passenger Air Bag Sensor,Child Safety Locks,Back-Up Camera

Learn how to build an outdoor patio bar with an acid stained concrete top. In part 1 Pete will show you how to build a concrete bar top mold, pour concrete, create a trowel finish, and seal a concrete bar top. For the complete and free bar plans go to

For more info, project photos, and downloadable plans check out:

http://www.diypete.com/patiotable

Download Plans: https://gumroad.com/l/patiobar

*Note that these are affiliate links, meaning that when you buy something that is recommended below, it helps support the Channel. Thanks in advance!

*Tools Needed
Power Drill – http://amzn.to/1OxMfnt
Orbital Sander – http://amzn.to/1VUVNYy
Circular Saw – http://amzn.to/1OxNa7k
Table Saw (optional) – http://amzn.to/1X7Eje5
12″ Miter Saw (optional) – http://amzn.to/1VUVo8s
Jig Saw – http://amzn.to/1ZGFCTf
Bolt Cutter – http://amzn.to/1OxNcfe
Concrete Trowel – http://amzn.to/1LwkIAe

Measure and then cut the Melamine wood to size using a circular saw. Use a jig saw if needed to cut hard to reach areas. Cut the sidewalls for the concrete bar mold using a table saw or circular saw. I cut mine to 3 3/4 inches wide. This gave me a nice bold looking concrete top that was a total of 3 inches thick. The extra 3/4 of an inch is to compensate for the base of the mold.

Layout the sidewalls of the mold to make sure everything fits correctly. Attach the sidewalls to the base using 1 1/2 inch drywall screws. Pre-drill prior to inserting the screw.

Use a knife to cut 1 1/2 inch thick foam for the knockout in your mold. It will be slightly smaller than the mold. There is a 1 inch channel around the entire perimeter between the foam and the sidewalls. This will allow concrete to form around the foam and to create a lip. Your concrete counter will look like it is 3 inches thick throughout. However, it will only be 1 1/2 inches thick where the foam is placed. Thus, you’ll reduce the weight of the countertop dramatically and will not have to purchase as much concrete.

The foam I used had a metallic backing. Please note that any foam will work. I bought smaller project sized pieces and then used packing tape to piece them together. I also sealed all the edges of the foam with clear packing tape so the foam would release from the concrete easily.

Cut re-enforcement for the concrete down to size. It typically comes in 4×8 sheets at Home Depot. Seal the joints in your mold with 100% silicon caulk. Use silicon to adhere the foam to the base of the mold as well. Let the silicon dry before adding the concrete.

Mix up your concrete 1 bag at a time. I’d recommend using Quikrete Counter Top mix. If you can’t find countertop mix, Quikrete 5000 will work. The countertop mix consists of finer aggregate and is much easier to create a perfect hard trowel finish with. Mix the concrete with a hoe or a shovel. Add water until it is about a cookie dough type consistency.

Add the concrete to the mold. Use a shovel, bucket, or your hands to pack it into the counter top mold. Use your hands and fingers to pack the concrete into all areas of the mold. Make sure to wear rubber gloves whenever handling concrete. Fill the mold half full with concrete. Then place the re-enforcement in the concrete. Make sure it is as flat as possible. Then continue adding concrete until the mold is full.

Screed the concrete using a 2×4. Simply move the 2×4 in a saw-like motion back and forth. This will level out the concrete. Fill in low spots as needed and screed from one side to another until the concrete in the mold is as level as possible. Use a trowel to smooth the concrete for the first time. If you have a float, you can use it to help bring more “cream” to the surface which helps make the hard troweling process a bit easier.

This is one of the most important steps. I like to compare it to watching the grill so you get a perfect medium rare steak for dinner. Except with this, it takes a lot longer and you don’t get to eat a steak. Anyhow, let the concrete firm up for a few hours and check it every half hour because curing time will depend on temperature, humidity, the amount of water used, and the concrete mix. Use a finger to test the firmness. If it leaves a small dimple and you don’t get any water or concrete on your finger it is ready to remove the sidewalls and trowel.

Slowly remove the sidewalls. If the concrete sags make sure to put the sidewalls back on and to wait longer. Once the sidewalls are off you can smooth out the edges and fill any bugholes with extra concrete…
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Pete Sveen
1627 W Main Street Suite 182
Bozeman, Montana 59715