Goods high definition for 14″ rubber glove with cotton linning-rough finish Bahamas Factory

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To pick up a Set of the Finishing and Polishing Mandrels, click on the below link:

http://etsy.me/1UcRSJ1

* For a complete list of the highest quality coin ring-making tools, visit my Shop page at:

http://www.CoinRingUSA.com

There’s a lot of information on how to fold and reduce coins to make coin rings, but almost no information on HOW to actually go about and professionally finish and polish the thinner, non-reeded cut edge of your coin rings…

Now you can speed up the finishing process of coin ring-making and obtain the best most uniform high quality smooth, shiny, and even finish to the NON-REEDED edges of your coin rings by quickly getting rid of those unsightly, uneven, sharp edges with this Finishing AND Polishing Mandrel Set!.

No more having to use nail buffing files, sanding by hand, using steel round files or deburring tools to finish your rough coin ring edges… nothing else performs better in completing this critical aspect of coin ring-making.

This Professional set of 3 different-sized Finishing and Polishing Mandrels are designed to give your coin rings that professional-looking quality finish on the edge that was originally the inner part of the coin that is so hard to achieve and will finish and polish any coin ring from an approximate US size of 5, up to an approximate US size of 14.

The Kit comes with a precision German-made stainless steel shank complete with 3 interchangeable uniquely-designed abrasion resistant mandrel cones in the following sizes:

Small — (fits ring sizes of approx. 5-8),
Medium — (fits ring sizes of approx. 8.5-11),
Large — (fits ring sizes of approx. 11-14).

To change from one size to another, you simply hold the tapered rubber mandrel with one hand and twist the steel shank with the other…. no tools are necessary!

The advantage to using the finishing and polishing mandrels is that as the ring is held on tightly to the tapered mandrel that’s spinning while being attached to your power drill; it acts much like a small lathe, providing a much more uniform finish to the ring than can be achieved with either hand-sanding, using a nail buffing file, a steel round-file, or even a small rotary tool such as a Dremel.

*** TO BEGIN ***

1.) Determine which size Polishing Tapered Mandrel fits your completed coin ring, and slide the coin ring on to it.

2.) Place the Mandrel bit into your power drill and tighten.

3.) Adjust the coin ring until it’s well-balanced with no “wobbling” on the Mandrel with your power drill on, and then expand the Mandrel by tightening the Stainless Steel Phillips head set screw at the top which holds the coin ring securely in place.

4.) Begin on the outer edge of the coin ring with the coarser 100 Grit sandpaper and work your way around to the inner edge of the coin ring; making sure that ONLY the corner tip of the sandpaper is making contact with the unfinished inner, top, and outer edges of your coin ring to prevent damage to the rings’ detail. Take your time with this step; especially when you’re first starting out.

5.) Continue to work the inner, top, and outer edges of the NON-REEDED side using the finer Grits of sandpaper as you go; finishing with “0000” Steel Wool. You can also use the steel wool and LIGHTLY go over the inner and the outer detail of the coin ring before you either polish it with a jeweler’s cloth or after you’ve put a patina (antique-looking) finish on the ring.

6.) The final step is to use a jeweler’s cloth to both buff and finish-polish your coin ring.

Your ring will now have a highly-smoothed, rounded, and polished edge on the NON-REEDED side that is not often seen on coin rings!

Other materials needed: a power drill, 3 different grits of sandpaper (I use 100 Grit, 500 Grit, and 1,000 Grit), some “0000” Steel Wool, and a jeweler’s polishing cloth to complete this process. Those items can be purchased from Amazon.com; at a big box store like Home Depot, or any local hardware store inexpensively.

*** SAFETY FIRST ***
- Always wear safety glasses and work gloves.
- Always use caution when working with any power tools and electricity.
- Keep fingers, long hair, and loose clothing away from any fast moving parts.

Description: “How to Get Smooth Rounded Edges to the Rough Cut Side of Coin Rings!”

Hardshell gourds have been used as food and beverage containers, and art pieces for centuries. They are often referred to as “nature’s pottery” due to their beautiful variety of shapes and hardy uses. The creative crafting possibilities of hardshell gourds are endless; from bowls and cups (mate gourds, used for drinking yerba mate), to purses, jewelry, Christmas ornaments, lampshades, jewelry boxes, bird houses, tribal penis shields, and even a wide variety of musical instruments. The list goes on forever, only limited by your imagination.

But I’m not here right now to tell you what to do with them (maybe later); I’m here to tell you how to clean them inside and out, using safety precautions.

The need to clean depends largely on what you plan to do with the gourd. You may decide to only work on the outside without a need to open the gourd, in which case you get to avoid the extra work involved. If you plan to make a bowl, for example, then clearly you’ll be working on both inside and outside, as well as cutting and/or carving.

The outsides of dried gourds are fairly simple to clean, if sometimes labor intensive. The extent to which you clean them depends upon how you want to use them, and what you might want to add to the surface (paints, dyes, etc.). If you want a naturey-looking gourd with its natural waxy coating you don’t have to do much beyond washing off dirt and dark mold with a hot water and bleach solution (maybe 10 parts water to 1 part bleach), which retards future mold growth. However, if you want to dye a gourd, leaving the waxy coating on it might prevent dye from soaking into the surface the way you want it to, which means you’ll have to scrub harder to remove nature’s irritating addition to your innocent craft project.

The insides of gourds are a different story, and a potentially dangerous one. You need to be careful not to inhale the contents. Not all hardshell gourds are terrible inside, but they are all dusty, and you can’t guess which ones will merely make you sneeze and which ones might contain mold/fungus, bacteria, and other pathogens that could cause serious allergic reactions, including anaphylactic shock. I’ve personally been flattened with a gourd dust-related illness that gourd crafters refer to as “gourd flu”, which was basically illness that mimicked semi-severe flu symptoms (fever, aching joints, muscle soreness, mucus, fatigue) for about two to three days. If there’s a medical term for this, I don’t know what it is, but in hindsight… I probably should have seen a doctor. And you should, too, if it ever happens to you.

So… to prepare, make sure you use a dust mask. They’re easily found at hardware stores all over. Choose a good one designed for working with wood/sawdust; if possible, look into one that also protects against molds/fungus. Second, use protective goggles. Remember, these precautions aren’t just for gourds; any time you do craftwork involving dust, solvents, tools and so on.

What can you expect to find when you open a gourd (via Xacto knives/saws, mini electric jigsaws, or Dremels… be careful not to cut yourself)? Dust, seeds, a styrofoam-like substance, and hardened pulp, maybe even a few tiny beetles. You probably don’t want to keep that junk in there, right? So you have to clean it out, and often this is easy, but occasionally this can get ugly.

You should prepare yourself for cleaning the outside with:
~ A sink or tub, the size depending on the size(s) of gourds you’re cleaning.
~ Rags
~ Copper scrubbing pads. 100% copper means they won’t rust should you want to use them again later.
~ Bleach
~ Old towel(s)
~ Something to scrape with, perhaps a knife edge
~ Rubber dish gloves

You should prepare yourself for cleaning the inside with:
~ Gardening gloves, or thicker gloves
~ A melon baller
~ A taxidermy scraper
~ A sanding sponge
~ A shop vac
~ Dust masks, the best ones being for the finest particulate matter
~ Eye protection, especially if you plan on using power tools
~ Electric drill with wire brush bit for spots that are hard to reach

Please don’t ignore the safety precautions, especially regarding sawdust. If you use a high-powered cutting tool (Dremel, etc), you’ll be generating a lot… a LOT… of sawdust from the gourd, and it is very, very fine. The faster the tool, the more dust you’ll create. Many gourd artists opt for mini-jigsaws with variable speeds, to control the cutting and minimize dust. In addition to dust masks and goggles, you should work in a well-ventilated area.