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The later part of the 20th century saw lots of refactoring Pizzighelli’s formulas from the 1880s and early 1890s for printing out platinum. Whereas palladium is pretty genial and prints out fairly easily, platinum is reluctant. One fellow announced back in the 1980s a platinum print out process that by his own acknowledgment really needed a little palladium (and a lot of hydration) to print out.

My ammonium ferric ferrous oxalate makes it possible to print out platinum, stone dry, with no palladium.

For over 140 years printers have tried and failed to do what I demo in this brief video. No mess, no fuss, just mix up the sensitizer and brush it on the dry paper. As with every single demo I have ever made, live or for the camera, I ended up printing the image a bit too light. Maybe it’s the sunglasses! Also, I am well aware that was not the model’s thigh.

Formula:
You want to use about 50% more platinum chloride than you would for any given print (artcraftchemicals.com). More solution means stronger Dmax. Some images need very strong Dmax, some don’t. In this video, I used one extra drop (than I would use of gold or palladium) of the 20% platinum. So, 3 drops 20% potassium platinum chloride. I froze the platinum, thawed it, refroze and rethawed it. Then I added 3 drops 99.9% glycerin (which you can buy almost anywhere). Then 1 drop of 26% ferric oxalate for a contrast boost. Feel free to use ammonium dichromate. Wear big red rubber gloves, a rubber apron, and a splash mask, just in case. Finally, add to all this 3 drops of 40% ammonium ferric-ferrous oxalate prepared with 8 drops of 2% vitamin C.

Prepare the AFFO for this formula by preparing 10 ml of 40% ammonium ferric oxalate. Pour the ammonium ferric oxalate into a bottle. Now add 8 drops of 2% ascorbic acid to the ammonium ferric oxalate. Cap and shake the bottle well for 10 or 15 seconds and you have 10 ml of 40% ammonium ferric-ferrous oxalate.

After you brush the sensitizer onto a sheet of paper suitable for platinum, let it dry totally, completely. Glycerin takes forever to dry — expect an 8×10 to take around 30 to 45 minutes at low RH (~30%) and 75 to 90 minutes at around 70% RH. Print out in sunlight is much faster than a UV box and generally, in my experience, more accurate. Probably because I don’t have so long to waffle on whether the print is ready or not…

Questions? Email richardepuckett@texaschrysotype.com. Visit richardpuckett.tumblr.com (especially for my work with rhodium), www.texaschrysotype.com for sample prints and flickr.com/chrysotypes/. Also see my other videos: gold, platinum-gold, and dry print out palladium.