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***UPDATE — 6 months after completing this repair, I removed my oil pan to check and the bolts and nuts were all still tight. So the repair has worked and things are still looking great. ***

In this video we’re working on the BMW V8 M60 engine (E34 540i had this engine, as did E32 740i, E38 740i, and E31 840i).

If you run into problems, head over to bimmerforums.com. There are a lot of great guys there who are happy to help — they helped me diagnose this problem and so I decided to video it to help anyone else.

This video shows you how to fix low engine oil pressure that causes two related symptoms:

1) the engine ticking that is coming from the cylinder heads, caused by low oil pressure, which is making the valve lifters collapse

2) low engine oil pressure, which is indicated on the dashboard check panel as “ENGINE OIL PRESS”

Likely cause of low engine oil pressure:
It is common for the oil pump bolts to become loose on these engines, and over time, back themselves out and fall into the oil pan.

You may have this problem if you are seeing the two symptoms described above.

One quick way to tell is if you drain the oil from the car, and using a rubber mallet, rap on the bottom of the oil pan at its lowest point. You can hear the bolts in the pan bouncing around — you will need to drain as much of the oil as possible and give the pan a good whack with the mallet. When I did this, it sounded like quarters bouncing around in there.

Even a newbie can follow the steps in this video and fix the problem at home. Here is what you will need:

TIME: 2-3 hours for a weekend warrior. 4-6 for a novice.

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED:
• A Bentley repair manual for E34 can be helpful for this and other repairs in the future, but not required as this video explains the steps well
• jack stands
• floor jack
• oil pan for catching old oil (needs to hold 8+ quarts)
• several rags
• nitrile/vinyl gloves
• 3/8″ ratchet drive and various extensions
• 3/8″ drive sockets 10m, 13mm, 17mm
• 3/8″ drive torque wrench, or 1/2″ drive torque wrench with 3/8″ adapter
• 1/4″ ratchet drive with 10mm socket
• Breaker bar (I used 1/2″ drive with a 3/8″ adapter) just to coax off the oil drain plug, and maybe for the oil filter housing
• 10mm open end wrench
• gasket scraper or razor blade and steady hand
• 8mm hex wrench (allen key)
• headlamp, flashlight or shop light will be helpful
• a very large adjustable (crescent) wrench, or 36mm socket or 36mm wrench for the oil filter housing. A special socket is available from bavauto.com for this, P/N 02341

PARTS YOU WILL NEED:
• BRAKE PARTS CLEANER – - I didn’t use this in the video, but so many of you commented and it’s a great idea… I should have used it. Use it to clean the oil out of the threads on the bolts and the holes the bolts will go into, before you apply the locktite. Thanks for the suggestion guys!
• 8 quarts of new oil – I suggest Mobile 1, 0w40. Personally, I used 1 quart of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer and 7 quarts of Mobile 1, 0w40.
• new oil pan gasket BMW P/N 11131436324
• new oil filter (part number depends, check realoem.com)
• new oil filter housing o-ring BMW P/N 11421741000
• new drain plug crush washer BMW P/N 07119963151
• OR you can get the oil filter set from the dealer, which includes: new oil filter + filter housing o-ring + drain crush washer as BMW P/N 11427510717
optional: Oil Pressure Switch BMW P/N 12617620512

After completing this repair, if you still have ticking, you may have a failing oil pump, or worn followers (hydraulic lifters) in the cylinder heads and will need to replace them. A Bentley manual for E34 can be helpful. So can help from a more experienced buddy from your local BMW club, BMWCCA chapter, or German auto club. Also, for some people that are having ticking or engine chatter but did not find their oil pump bolts loose, your chatter may go away simply by switching to an oil like Mobile 1, 0W40 with a quart of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer.

I welcome your comments unless you’re a douchebag or drive a Dodge. Happy wrenching.

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Use MARINE-CLEANTM for cleaning and degreasing machinery parts, turbine blades, diesel engines, compressors,transformers, bulkheads, deck plates, bilge areas; removal of oily deposits found in closed systems such as air conditioning, boiler tubes, compressor lines, heat exchangers and coils; removal of light distillates, mineral oils, heavy grease, degreasing all metal surfaces, plastics, wood, fiberglass, painted surfaces. Always wear eye protection and rubber gloves when using Marine Clean.

FEATURES
• Biodegradable aqueous cleaning agent
• Low sudsing
• Broad materials and surface compatibility
• Non-corrosive
• Does not contain petroleum or caustic chemicals
• Non-flammable
Applications
Pre-paint cleaning and degreasing prior to the application of paint or primer to aid coating adhesion.
Removal of dirt, grease, and soil from components to avoid contamination.
Cosmetic cleaning of components or surfaces after use, disassembly, or for aesthetics.
Pre-plate cleaning prior to plating, welding, anodizing, or similar surface finishing to aid adhesion of the surface finish. Pre-bond cleaning prior to the application of an adhesive or sealant to aid in bonding one surface or component to another. Hydraulic components and bearings that require a high level of cleanliness due to close tolerances and other physical parameters.

SHOULD MARINE CLEAN ALWAYS BE DILUTED WITH WATER?
Yes. Marine Clean will actually be more effective if it is diluted at least 1:1 with water.

DOES TEMPERATURE AFFECT THE CLEANING ACTION?
Yes. A hot solution will work better and faster, so dilute with hot water and store Marine Clean indoors.
WHAT DILUTION IS MOST EFFECTIVE?
That depends on the job to be done. 1:1 is best for engine cleaning, removing baked-on oil from cylinder heads, removing gum and varnish from fuel tanks. To clean exterior surfaces of cars or boats, use dilutions beginning at 1 part Marine Clean to 5 parts water through to10 parts water. Always remember to thoroughly rinse off Marine Clean with water after completing your cleaning job.
HOW FAST WILL MARINE CLEAN DO THE JOB?
That also depends on the job. Baked-on oil may take up to 2 hours of soaking before it can be easily brushed or sponged off; gum and varnish in a gas tank may take 24 hours or more. Hot solution works better.
DOES METAL THAT’S BEEN CLEANED WITH MARINE CLEAN HAVE TO BE TREATED WITH METAL-READY RUST REMOVER/ PREPRIMER BEFORE GAS TANK SEALER OR POR-15 RUST PREVENTIVE PAINT CAN BE USED?
Yes. Marine Clean is a powerful caustic solution that leaves an alkaline finish on metal. An acid finish takes paint better because it etches the metal and gives it a surface profile with “tooth” for the topcoat paint to bite into. Our Metal-Ready Rust Remover/Preprimer is the perfect prep to use on any surface that’s been cleaned with Marine Clean first.
WHAT ARE OTHER USES FOR MARINE CLEAN?
Cleaning and degreasing of machinery parts, turbine blades, diesel engines, compressors, transformers, bulkheads, deck plates, bilge areas; removal of oily deposits found in closed systems such as: air conditioning, boiler tubes, compressor lines, heat exchangers and coils; removal of light distillates, mineral oils, heavy grease, degreasing all metal surfaces, plastics, wood, fiberglass, painted surfaces. Remember to thoroughly rinse off Marine Clean with water after completing your cleaning job.
ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND RUBBER GLOVES WHEN USING MARINE CLEAN.