Factory made hot-sale 14″ Household rubber glove for Romania Factories

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Sanitation glove, made of 100% natrual latex,  textured palm for anti-slip, waterproof, anti acid and alkali, non-toxic.  length 36cm, 0.085kg/pair, packing: 100pr/case. Mainly used for food processing, hotels, family kitchen, etc. Color: red, blue, etc.  


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It adheres to the tenet "Honest, industrious, enterprising, innovative" to develop new products constantly. It regards customers, success as its own success. Let us develop prosperous future hand in hand ! Factory made hot-sale 14″ Household rubber glove for Romania Factories, If you are interested in our products, please feel free to send us your inquiry. We sincerely hope to establish win-win business relationships with you.


Sanitation glove, made of 100% natrual latex,  textured palm for anti-slip, waterproof, anti acid and alkali, non-toxic.

 length 36cm, 0.085kg/pair, packing: 100pr/case.

Mainly used for food processing, hotels, family kitchen, etc. Color: red, blue, etc.

 
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  • This mold making tutorial video demonstrates how to make a brush on mold of a 3 dimensional model using Brush On 40 urethane rubber.

    Step 1: Glue model to base.

    Step 2: Apply SuperSeal sealing agent to all surfaces.

    Step 3: Apply Universal Mold Release to all surfaces.

    Step 4: Properly measure Parts A & B. Dispense equal amounts of Brush-On 40.

    Step 5: Mix mold rubber.

    *** Mold Maker’s Tip: Color pigment every other layer. This ensures thorough coverages and help avoid thin spots in the mold. ***

    Step 6: Apply mold rubber. First layer, or “detail coat” is applied thinly. Push or stipple rubber into detail. Mix and apply more material as needed.

    Step 7: Allow rubber to gel until “tacky” (30-40 minutes at room temperature). “Tacky” means sticky to touch but does not come off model.

    Step 8: Mix and apply second layer of rubber.

    Step 9: Allow rubber to gel until tacky.

    *** Mold Maker’s Tip: Thicken Rubber with Cab-O-Sil or URE-FIL 9. Use thickened rubber to make parting shims. ***

    Step 10: Add Cab-O-Sil to thicken rubber. Use thickened rubber in undercuts and indentations. Use thickened rubber to create registration keys.

    Step 11: Mix and apply third layer of rubber. Mix and apply more rubber as needed.

    Step 12: Allow rubber to gel until tacky.

    Step 13: Build up parting shims and undercuts.

    Step 14: Mix and apply fourth layer of rubber.

    Step 15: Let all layers cure overnight at room temperature.

    Step 16: Applying the support shell or “mother mold.” Purpose: provides rigid support to flexible rubber mold during casting. Draw parting lines. Use modeling clay to make support parting shims. Apply clay supports to other side. Fill in any open spaces and smooth clay pieces together. Complete clay shim around model. Apply clay supports on other side.

    *** Mold Maker’s Tip: Use sculptor’s tool or paper clip to carve registration keys into clay. ***

    Apply Sonite Wax over rubber surface, clay shims and base. Apply Universal Mold Release. Measure and mix Plasti-Paste II. Mix ratio: 1A:2B by volume. Mix thoroughly. Apply Plasti-Paste II to mold rubber. Let cure about 90 minutes.

    Next Step: Remove clay shim. Use clay to make second parting shim. This defines the second and third shell segments. Apply clay supports and smooth edges. Apply Sonite Wax. Apply Universal Mold Release. Measure and mix Plasti-Paste II. Let cure about 90 minutes. Remove clay shim. Apply Sonite Wax to Section 3. Apply Universal Mold Release. Measure and mix Plasti-Paste II. Let cure 90 minutes.

    Step 17: Demold. Remove shell segments. Remove rubber mold from model. Use razor knife to cut seam. Perfect detail is captured from the original model.

    Step 18: Ready to cast. Apply Universal Mold Release to all surfaces. “Seat” mold into shell making sure seam is aligned. Secure mold with straps or rubber bands. Mix and pour duoMatrix NEO into mold cavity. Mix ratio: 2A:1B by volume. Add more duoMatrix NEO as needed. Let all layers cure for about one hour.

    Step 19: Ready to demold. A perfect lightweight reproduction.

    Make It Now! with Smooth-On

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    How To Remove Powder Coating From Aluminum

    A very common way to paint aluminum is with powder coating; it is sprayed onto the metal when it is very hot, where the powder melts and creates a secure bond that will last for many years. If you aren’t happy with a particular powder coating job or you would like to change the color, it can be quite simple to return your aluminium to its original state.

    Step 1: Set up a work area outside or in a garage (or large room that can be ventilated by opening doors and windows). Hang the aluminum object up via hooks so that you can easily access it all the way round.

    Step 2: For areas of the powder coat that you do not wish to remove, cover them with some paper bags. Make sure that you tape the bags down, along all the ledges, with masking tape to fully protect the area.

    Step 3: Spray the sections of the aluminum that you want to remove the powder coat from with an industrial strength gasket remover. Leave the object to sit for 15 to 20 minutes; you should notice the coating start to bubble and peel.

    Step 4: Use a dry rag to wipe over the aluminum and remove the peeling powder coat. If you notice remaining spots of the coating, give them a spray with the gasket remover and leave to sit again.

    You should be able to pick up some gasket remover at an automotive store in your area; just make sure that you wear heavy, long-sleeved clothing, gloves, safety goggles and a respiratory mask when working with it.

    You should also throw away the rags used to clean down the aluminum, as the remover is actually quite poisonous.

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