China New Product 32”rubber glove-cotton linning for Ottawa Factory
Short Description:
Heavy duty rubber glove, made of 100% natural latex. 32”length(82cm), smooth finish, seamless, cotton lining, left/right hand, 800g/pair, 50 pairs/case. Using for Isolater, dry box, blast cabinet, etc.
Product Detail
FAQ
Product Tags
continue to improve, to ensure product quality in line with market and customer standard requirements. Our company has a quality assurance system have been established. Mission: Optimize our professional technology, product and service; China New Product 32”rubber glove-cotton linning for Ottawa Factory, items won certifications with the regional and international primary authorities .For far more detailed information,please contact us!
Heavy duty rubber glove, made of 100% natural latex. 32”length(82cm), smooth finish, seamless, cotton lining, left/right hand, 800g/pair, 50 pairs/case. Using for Isolater, dry box, blast cabinet, etc.
FAQ Content
This is a merchandise review of Kandals Eco Classic.
Hey fellas, this is the Kandals Eco Classic. Easy, no-brainer slip on, elastic proper below just throw them on barefoot. They are a hundred% vegan canvas sneakers that are handmade out of Spain. Excellent small babydoll toe. They’ve got two levels of canvas on the prime with a skinny lining of foam in among so it is really definitely comfortable and it breaks in. It is really a small more durable that way. You will find canvas and foam on the base so they’re more cozy, and a rubber base. They are just like butter. Excellent, common coloration below in the organic tan. They occur in common black and the crimson as very well. They are whole European measurements only so European 45 to forty one. They operate about a 50 percent size significant so I would go down a 50 percent size. So if you are a 7 and a 50 percent I would go to a 37, if you are a 37 or a 7 I would get the 7 considering the fact that there is no 50 percent measurements. Serious cozy, light-weight, you are heading to like them. Toss them on barefoot and these are heading to be your favored pair of sneakers for the summer. The kicker: the greatest section about it? They odor like strawberries. They in fact do. They infuse the canvas with a strawberry scent so you retain a fresh scent. Inherently, canvas sneakers can make your feet sweat and odor. These make your feet fresh and joyful all working day extended. Recall: if you are heading to kick ass, you have to have kick ass new Kandals. Thanks!
That was a merchandise review of Kandals Eco Classic.
www.citysoles.com
Learn how to build an outdoor patio bar with an acid stained concrete top. In part 1 Pete will show you how to build a concrete bar top mold, pour concrete, create a trowel finish, and seal a concrete bar top. For the complete and free bar plans go to
For more info, project photos, and downloadable plans check out:
http://www.diypete.com/patiotable
Download Plans: https://gumroad.com/l/patiobar
*Note that these are affiliate links, meaning that when you buy something that is recommended below, it helps support the Channel. Thanks in advance!
*Tools Needed
Power Drill – http://amzn.to/1OxMfnt
Orbital Sander – http://amzn.to/1VUVNYy
Circular Saw – http://amzn.to/1OxNa7k
Table Saw (optional) – http://amzn.to/1X7Eje5
12″ Miter Saw (optional) – http://amzn.to/1VUVo8s
Jig Saw – http://amzn.to/1ZGFCTf
Bolt Cutter – http://amzn.to/1OxNcfe
Concrete Trowel – http://amzn.to/1LwkIAe
Measure and then cut the Melamine wood to size using a circular saw. Use a jig saw if needed to cut hard to reach areas. Cut the sidewalls for the concrete bar mold using a table saw or circular saw. I cut mine to 3 3/4 inches wide. This gave me a nice bold looking concrete top that was a total of 3 inches thick. The extra 3/4 of an inch is to compensate for the base of the mold.
Layout the sidewalls of the mold to make sure everything fits correctly. Attach the sidewalls to the base using 1 1/2 inch drywall screws. Pre-drill prior to inserting the screw.
Use a knife to cut 1 1/2 inch thick foam for the knockout in your mold. It will be slightly smaller than the mold. There is a 1 inch channel around the entire perimeter between the foam and the sidewalls. This will allow concrete to form around the foam and to create a lip. Your concrete counter will look like it is 3 inches thick throughout. However, it will only be 1 1/2 inches thick where the foam is placed. Thus, you’ll reduce the weight of the countertop dramatically and will not have to purchase as much concrete.
The foam I used had a metallic backing. Please note that any foam will work. I bought smaller project sized pieces and then used packing tape to piece them together. I also sealed all the edges of the foam with clear packing tape so the foam would release from the concrete easily.
Cut re-enforcement for the concrete down to size. It typically comes in 4×8 sheets at Home Depot. Seal the joints in your mold with 100% silicon caulk. Use silicon to adhere the foam to the base of the mold as well. Let the silicon dry before adding the concrete.
Mix up your concrete 1 bag at a time. I’d recommend using Quikrete Counter Top mix. If you can’t find countertop mix, Quikrete 5000 will work. The countertop mix consists of finer aggregate and is much easier to create a perfect hard trowel finish with. Mix the concrete with a hoe or a shovel. Add water until it is about a cookie dough type consistency.
Add the concrete to the mold. Use a shovel, bucket, or your hands to pack it into the counter top mold. Use your hands and fingers to pack the concrete into all areas of the mold. Make sure to wear rubber gloves whenever handling concrete. Fill the mold half full with concrete. Then place the re-enforcement in the concrete. Make sure it is as flat as possible. Then continue adding concrete until the mold is full.
Screed the concrete using a 2×4. Simply move the 2×4 in a saw-like motion back and forth. This will level out the concrete. Fill in low spots as needed and screed from one side to another until the concrete in the mold is as level as possible. Use a trowel to smooth the concrete for the first time. If you have a float, you can use it to help bring more “cream” to the surface which helps make the hard troweling process a bit easier.
This is one of the most important steps. I like to compare it to watching the grill so you get a perfect medium rare steak for dinner. Except with this, it takes a lot longer and you don’t get to eat a steak. Anyhow, let the concrete firm up for a few hours and check it every half hour because curing time will depend on temperature, humidity, the amount of water used, and the concrete mix. Use a finger to test the firmness. If it leaves a small dimple and you don’t get any water or concrete on your finger it is ready to remove the sidewalls and trowel.
Slowly remove the sidewalls. If the concrete sags make sure to put the sidewalls back on and to wait longer. Once the sidewalls are off you can smooth out the edges and fill any bugholes with extra concrete…
—-
Looking for more DIY videos? Be sure to check out our channel and subscribe for updates! We post a weekly tutorial every Thursday.
Looking for woodworking, concrete working, and other DIY projects plans to follow? You can download plans for free at http://gumroad.com/DIYPETE
Facebook: http://facebook.com/DiyProjectsWithPete
Instagram: http://instagram.com/diypete
Pete Sveen
1627 W Main Street Suite 182
Bozeman, Montana 59715