40% OFF Price For 24″ rubber glove – cotton linning-rough finish for Berlin Manufacturer

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Heavy duty rubber glove, made of 100% natural latex. 24” length(62cm), rough finish, seamless, cotton lining, ambidextrous style (fits either hand), 570g/pair, 50pairs/case. Good resistance against acid and alkali. Using for Isolater, dry box, blast cabinet, etc.


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Heavy duty rubber glove, made of 100% natural latex.

24” length(62cm), rough finish, seamless, cotton lining, ambidextrous style (fits either hand), 570g/pair, 50pairs/case.

Good resistance against acid and alkali. Using for Isolater, dry box, blast cabinet, etc.

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  • Verify out these new types and much more from Zappos.com! http://zps.to/ShopZappos
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    No issue what web site or venture you might be functioning on, the Keen® Utility Tacoma Wellington XT CSA boot will keep you shielded.
    Total grain leather-based upper with barnyard.proof leather-based that extends the lifestyle of your boot.
    Comp toe operate boot has a 100% non-metallic construction.
    Slip-on style with pull loops for effortless entry.
    Keen.Dry water resistant, breathable membrane locks out rain and humidity, but releases the heat and perspiration created throughout a challenging day’s operate.
    Keen.Secure is a Keen Patented Toe Defense where the shoe outsole wraps up and around the toes for greatest defense.
    Removable metatomical twin-density EVA footbed.
    Contoured heel lock.
    Options Cleansport NXT™ for organic odor command for a fresher foot surroundings.
    Goodyear welt construction.
    Puncture resistant midsole plate.
    TPU stability shank.
    ninety degree heel.
    Non-marking rubber outsole is oil and slip resistant.
    Meets CSA Z195-09 Grade 1 expectations for defense.
    Meets or exceeds ASTM F1677-96 Mark II non-slip testing expectations.
    Comp toe fulfills or exceeds ASTM F2412-11 and F2413-11 I/seventy five C/seventy five EH expectations.
    Measurements:

    Heel Top: 1 1⁄2 in
    Body weight: two lbs 15 oz
    Circumference: 14 1⁄2 in
    Shaft: 10 1⁄2 in
    Platform Top: 1 in

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    This video from Sears PartsDirect shows how to replace a broken clutch assembly in a direct-drive washer. The clutch releases the brake in the drive system to allow the basket to spin when the washer is in spin mode. The clutch band creates friction between the clutch hub and the clutch lining, causing the entire clutch assembly to rotate and release the brake. If the clutch lining is worn out, the clutch assembly will not rotate properly to release the brake. If the washer spins when the washer basket is empty but not when it’s full, check the clutch assembly. If it’s begining to turn blue, it will likely need to be replaced. This repair will work for direct-drive washers made by Kenmore, Whirlpool and Maytag.

    Visit us at http://www.searspartsdirect.com?sid=soc:youtube:how-to-replace-a-direct-drive-washer-clutch-assembly

    Or call 1-800-437-1673 to speak with a parts specialist.

    The video includes these parts. Look up your model to make sure you get the right parts for your washer.
    Clutch assembly

    http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/285785/0026/110.html?sid=soc:youtube:direct-part-link

    Find parts for your washer at:

    http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/product-types/Washer-Parts?sid=soc:youtube:card-washer-part

    Or click here to schedule an appointment with a repair technician. https://www.searshomeservices.com/repair#showall

    Transcript:
    Unplug the power cord from the wall outlet. Turn off the water supply valves for the washer. Open the washer lid and pry the cap from the top of the agitator. Remove the 7/16″ bolt and washer that secure the agitator to the agitator drive shaft. Grip the bottom of the agitator and pull the entire agitator assembly up and out of the washer. Pull the drain hose out of the standpipe behind the washer. Move the washer away from the wall so you can reach the fill hoses. Mark which fill hose goes to the hot connector and which goes to the cold. Using channel-lock pliers, carefully loosen and remove both fill hoses. Expect some water to pour out. Tip: Wipe up water spills with a towel to prevent slipping. Carefully tip the washer backwards to access the drive components at the bottom of the washer. Use a slot screwdriver to release the metal mounting clips that secure the drain pump to the front of the drive motor. Pull the drain pump forward and release it from the drive motor shaft, leave the hoses connected to the drain pump. Unplug the wire harness from the drive motor. Detach the wires from the drive motor capacitor. Release the drive motor wire harness from the plastic retainer clip on the bottom of the transmission housing. Remove the bolts that secure the transmission to the base of the washer. Carefully pull the transmission (with drive motor attached) straight out of the bottom of the washer. Set the transmission and drive motor assembly upright to service the clutch assembly. Pull the thrust washer off of the transmission shaft. Using needle-nosed pliers, pull the clutch support ring off of the top of the clutch assembly. Using a slot screwdriver, pry the clutch retainer ring off of the top of the clutch assembly. Slide the clutch assembly up and off the transmission shaft. Pry the C-clip off of the brake cam. Pull the brake cam off of the base of the washer. Position the new brake cam on the base of the washer and reinstall the C-clip. Insert the isolator ring into the new clutch housing. Slide the new clutch housing onto the transmission shaft. Install the retainer ring on the top of the new clutch housing. Reinstall the support ring on the top of the new clutch housing. Reinstall the thrust washer on top of the new clutch housing. Carefully slide the transmission and motor assembly back into the base of the washer. Adjust the alignment of the clutch as necessary so that the transmission is flush with the base of the washer and the mounting holes are lined up. Reinstall the mounting bolts in the transmission. Reconnect the wire harness plug on the drive motor. Reattach the wires to the drive motor capacitor. Reinstall the wire harness in the plastic retainer clip at the bottom of the transmission. Reposition the drain pump on the drive motor shaft and secure the drain pump with the retainer clips. Carefully tilt the washer back to the upright position. Connect the drain hoses and properly tighten the connections using channel-lock pliers. Slide the agitator onto the agitator drive shaft. Insert the agitator bolt and the washer. Tighten the agitator bolt firmly. Snap the agitator cap onto the top of the agitator assembly. Put the drain hose back in place, and turn on the water supply valves. Tighten the connection if you find a slight leak. Plug the washer into the electrical outlet. Return the washer to its original location.

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