2016 High quality 32″ rubber glove with cotton linning-rough finish to Croatia Factory
Short Description:
Heavy duty rubber glove, made of 100% natural latex. 32” length(82cm), rough finish, seamless, cotton lining, ambidextrous style (fits either hand), 800g/pair, 50pairs/case. Using for Isolater, dry box, blast cabinet, etc.
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FAQ
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To be the stage of realizing dreams of our employees! To build a happier, more united and more professional team! To reach a mutual benefit for our customers, suppliers, the society and ourselves! 2016 High quality 32″ rubber glove with cotton linning-rough finish to Croatia Factory, Standing still today and looking into the future, we sincerely welcome customers all over the world to cooperate with us.
Heavy duty rubber glove, made of 100% natural latex.
32” length(82cm), rough finish, seamless, cotton lining, ambidextrous style (fits either hand), 800g/pair, 50pairs/case. Using for Isolater, dry box, blast cabinet, etc.
FAQ Content
Blending the Rubber Ingredients:
The industrial process for making bicycle tires starts with raw synthetic rubber being fed into a milling machine. Rollers within the machine break up and soften the rubber. Other ingredients, such as mineral oil, zinc oxide, sulfur, carbon black and silica are then added to the rubber while it is being milled. These ingredients are mixed thoroughly with the rubber and make it more elastic and durable. Once completely mixed, the rubber is ready to be processed.
Casing Preparation:
Some of the rubber is then spread by a roller press to form a wide, thin, continuous sheet of rubber. The sheet is then fed into another machine to be bonded to woven nylon matting. The matting is removed from large roles and passed through the bonding machine along with the rubber sheet. The two are then welded together.
Casing Construction
A metal drum in a forming machine is then used to construct the layers of the tire. First, the nylon matting and rubber material is cut into properly sized strips that will become the casing of the tire. The strips are then placed around the drum so that the ends meet to form a complete ring. Two Kevlar cords are then wound onto the matting and completely around the drum. These will act as the rims of the tire. The drum is then expanded, forcing the Kevlar cords onto the rubber on the matting. The edges of the matting are then folded over the Kevlar cords.
Tread Construction
Two layers of hard and dense rubber are then sandwiched together and formed into a strip that is a precise width and thickness. A piece of this rubber strip is then laid onto the center of, and completely around, the casing. This material will eventually form the tread of the tire. The finished tire casing is now ready to be pressed and vulcanized.
Tire Pressing
The casing is next inserted into a press that will heat the rubber and form the tire in a process called vulcanization. This process first melts the rubber, fusing all of the parts of the tire together. Then the tire is pressed into a mold that creates the treads. As the rubber cools, it hardens into its final form. The finished tire can then be removed from the press.
Testing
A sampling from each batch of newly made tires is then tested. The road wear test simulates thousands of miles of wear on the tires. The puncture resistance and pressurization limit of the tires is also tested. If the sampling passes these tests, the tires are then packaged for sale.
This mold making tutorial video demonstrates how to make a brush on mold of a 3 dimensional model using Brush On 40 urethane rubber.
Step 1: Glue model to base.
Step 2: Apply SuperSeal sealing agent to all surfaces.
Step 3: Apply Universal Mold Release to all surfaces.
Step 4: Properly measure Parts A & B. Dispense equal amounts of Brush-On 40.
Step 5: Mix mold rubber.
*** Mold Maker’s Tip: Color pigment every other layer. This ensures thorough coverages and help avoid thin spots in the mold. ***
Step 6: Apply mold rubber. First layer, or “detail coat” is applied thinly. Push or stipple rubber into detail. Mix and apply more material as needed.
Step 7: Allow rubber to gel until “tacky” (30-40 minutes at room temperature). “Tacky” means sticky to touch but does not come off model.
Step 8: Mix and apply second layer of rubber.
Step 9: Allow rubber to gel until tacky.
*** Mold Maker’s Tip: Thicken Rubber with Cab-O-Sil or URE-FIL 9. Use thickened rubber to make parting shims. ***
Step 10: Add Cab-O-Sil to thicken rubber. Use thickened rubber in undercuts and indentations. Use thickened rubber to create registration keys.
Step 11: Mix and apply third layer of rubber. Mix and apply more rubber as needed.
Step 12: Allow rubber to gel until tacky.
Step 13: Build up parting shims and undercuts.
Step 14: Mix and apply fourth layer of rubber.
Step 15: Let all layers cure overnight at room temperature.
Step 16: Applying the support shell or “mother mold.” Purpose: provides rigid support to flexible rubber mold during casting. Draw parting lines. Use modeling clay to make support parting shims. Apply clay supports to other side. Fill in any open spaces and smooth clay pieces together. Complete clay shim around model. Apply clay supports on other side.
*** Mold Maker’s Tip: Use sculptor’s tool or paper clip to carve registration keys into clay. ***
Apply Sonite Wax over rubber surface, clay shims and base. Apply Universal Mold Release. Measure and mix Plasti-Paste II. Mix ratio: 1A:2B by volume. Mix thoroughly. Apply Plasti-Paste II to mold rubber. Let cure about 90 minutes.
Next Step: Remove clay shim. Use clay to make second parting shim. This defines the second and third shell segments. Apply clay supports and smooth edges. Apply Sonite Wax. Apply Universal Mold Release. Measure and mix Plasti-Paste II. Let cure about 90 minutes. Remove clay shim. Apply Sonite Wax to Section 3. Apply Universal Mold Release. Measure and mix Plasti-Paste II. Let cure 90 minutes.
Step 17: Demold. Remove shell segments. Remove rubber mold from model. Use razor knife to cut seam. Perfect detail is captured from the original model.
Step 18: Ready to cast. Apply Universal Mold Release to all surfaces. “Seat” mold into shell making sure seam is aligned. Secure mold with straps or rubber bands. Mix and pour duoMatrix NEO into mold cavity. Mix ratio: 2A:1B by volume. Add more duoMatrix NEO as needed. Let all layers cure for about one hour.
Step 19: Ready to demold. A perfect lightweight reproduction.
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