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FAQ Content

For more information on this vehicle visit http://tinyurl.com/jbu2ynl

Not only is this Corvette well documented, it sports a quality restoration that’s built around a roster of correct components, and its VIN-stamped 327/Muncie drivetrain is an exclusive differentiator in a sea of retrofitted big blocks. Now that we have your undivided attention, it’s our pleasure to bring you the latest in our line of awesome Corvette convertibles!

BODYWORK/TRIM

Saying this C2 is a great combination of show and streetability is essentially summarizing its status as a really nice classic that someone hasn’t been afraid to enjoy. The car was Bloomington Gold-certified back in 1993, which means it had likely been subjected to a world-class restoration. Then, prior to the current owner’s purchase in 2004, it was restored a second time just for good measure. Fast-forward 12 years, and this Vette presents very well, without inducing the ownership stress of a freshly restored trailer queen. During its in-depth rebuilds, the car’s solid fiberglass was thoroughly massaged and professionally finished. And when everything lined up and functioned well, a rich layer of correct Lynndale Blue base was buried in glossy clear and buffed to a deep shine.

ENGINE

Tilt this Corvette’s lightweight hood and you’ll find a 327 cubic inch L79 V8 that hangs a February (B) 23rd (23), 1967 (7) casting date and familiar 3892657 casting number behind a high performance ÐíÑHTÐíÑ suffix stamp and matching partial VIN. Introduced as a formidable companion for street prowling Sting Rays, this high performance small block left the factory twisting solid 10 to 1 compression into a stout 350 horsepower. At the top of the spry mill, a polished air cleaner funnels wind in to a correct Holley carburetor that’s threaded onto requisite stainless fuel lines. Below that juice box, a familiar Winters intake perfectly complements finned Corvette valve covers. At the back of that intake, chrome-cased transistorized ignition shoots spark past correct exhaust manifolds. And at the front of those manifolds, a stamped radiator cycles coolant through pliable hoses and old school tower clamps.

DRIVETRAIN/SUSPENSION

Behind the 327, an VIN-stamped Muncie 4-speed hangs a familiar 3885010 casting number next to a Muncie (P) assembled on February (B) 20th (20), 1967 (7) build stamp. Behind that gearbox, an “AM” stamped third-member twists a posi-traction differential around tough, 3.36 gears. At the ends of the car, a requisite double A-arm front and independent rear suspension is completely sorted down to its tough transverse leaf, standard manual steering and Gloss Black control arms. Above those sturdy bones, clean floor tubs ride a straight, Satin Black frame. At the corners of those floors, standard disc brakes mix good handling characteristics with quick and solid stops. At the edges of those brakes, old school side-pipes disperse a fantastic soundtrack. And 15-inch Rally Wheels twist 7.75-15 Firestone Deluxe Champion redlines around stainless trim rings and flush center caps.

INTERIOR

Open this C2′s tossable doors and you’ll find a correct Dark Blue interior that appears to have been completely replaced during the car’s first or second rebirth. Seating comes courtesy of correct leather thrones, which anchor optional headrests between blue belts, bright stainless trim and a small console that’s centered on a fully functional shifter. In front of those seats, a traditional clock and Delco AM/FM radio ride between rebuilt gauges and an aluminum-trimmed glove box. In front of the driver, a satin-spoke steering wheel laps a brilliant cross-flag emblem.

This Corvette has it all: great looks, solid power and a highly accurate restoration that would take years to duplicate. If you’re in the market for some solid Detroit muscle that’s poised to build equity for years to come, call, click or visit http://RKMotorsCharlotte.com for more information on this top notch Chevy!

How to Dump Your Black and Grey Holding Tanks

• To avoid accidentally opening a valve before you’ve inserted the hose into the sewer, ALWAYS insert your sewer hose into the dump station’s hole first. Make certain that the sewer hose elbow is tightly secured in the dump station hole. Then twist the sewer hose connection to the RV’s sewer connection. Once you’re sure that everything is connected and secured properly, you’re ready to perform the tank dumping process.

• When emptying both the black and grey tanks, dump the black water tank first before the grey water tank so the soapy water from the grey tank can clean the residue from the hose. While listening and ‘feeling’ the hose, you’ll hear/feel the liquid draining. Once it stops draining, close the valve.

• After your black and grey tanks are empty, perform the black tank rinse, filling the tank to two-thirds full and repeat the emptying process.

• Check to make sure that both your black and grey water tank valves are closed.

• Make sure that the RV tank outlet cover is securely twisted back on.

• Disconnect the sewer hose at the RV, and run water through the sewer hose to rinse it out. Remove the sewer hose from the dump station hole and rinse the outside of the hose. Rinse the area around the hole to ensure that any spillage has been cleaned up and cover the dump station hole.

• Don’t dump the black water tank until it is at least two-thirds full. If the tank is not two-thirds full add some water to the black tank prior to disconnecting from the campsite water hookup.

• NEVER fill your fresh water tank from a non-potable water source. Fill your fresh water tank at home, or at the campsite prior to disconnecting from your water source.

• Don’t leave the black water tank valve open while hooked up at a campsite sewer. This will cause liquids to drain, but leaves the solid waste behind to harden on the bottom of the tank.

• Use a good quality sewer hose. Don’t go for the cheaper hoses, as they will not hold up, and the last thing you want is to have the hose start leaking when you’re dumping the black tank. We actually carry 3 10’ Rhino brand sewer hoses. These collapse to roughly 32”, and all 3 fit nicely into our rear trailer bumper. We’ve only had to use 3 hoses once, so only having 2 hoses would normally be enough.

• Inspect your sewer hose after each dump. If the hose is starting to look worn, replace it.

• Carry an extra garden hose for tank rinsing in case the dump station doesn’t have one, or the dump station hose connection is ‘buggered up’. We use a solid green hose, which is a totally different color that our fresh water hoses. If the sign states non-potable water, always use the green hose. We use a white/blue and a solid blue hose for our fresh water.

• Store the non-potable water hose separately in an area where it won’t come into contact with your fresh water hose. We store the fresh water hoses in a plastic container, while we store the non-potable hose in another.

• NEVER use your fresh water hose for rinsing sewer hoses or the dump station area. NEVER!

• Wear protective rubber gloves and avoid touching the outside of the gloves.

• Even if other RVers are waiting to use the dump station, take your time, and empty and flush your tanks. Remember, those waiting in line have to perform the same tasks, so they’ll understand what you’re doing. And this whole process should only take you 10 – 15 minutes.

• Before you begin to add your chemicals and water to the holding tanks, always pull far enough up and out-of-the-way from the dump station, which allows the next RVer in line to start their dumping process.

• Never put anything other than the contents of your holding tanks into the sewer. Deposit your trash in the appropriate trash can at the dump station area.

• NEVER leave the dump station area cluttered with your trash or effluent. Always leave the dump station area cleaner than you found it. On our 30 day park hopping trip, we had to spend an extra 20 minutes cleaning up after someone’s effluent on the pavement. It’s a nasty cleaning chore to say the least, so PLEASE clean up after yourself.

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Norm and Phyllis