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Watch Maruti Swift vs Hyundai Grand i10 Comparison by CarDekho. Know more about Swift at http://www.cardekho.com/carmodels/Maruti/Maruti_Swift and Grand i10 at : http://www.cardekho.com/carmodels/Hyundai/Hyundai_i10

This video description covers exterior, interiors, drive handling, engine specs and much more.

Exterior :
The front bumper of Swift gets a new design, which gives it a sporty and aggressive look. It is equipped with powerful headlamps, a radiator grille with honeycomb mesh and Suzuki’s logo embedded in the center while at the lower part, there is three slate air dam. The fog lamp cluster is now redesigned and gets silver inserts. On the side profile, the window lines moves to rear door of the car, this makes the rear window appear smaller. At the rear end, it has concave taillight.
On the other hand, Hyundai Grand i10 gets a fluidic design that gets hexagonal grille shaped with black mesh air dam. Its front facade is fitted with stylish headlamps and is surrounded by round shaped fog lamps having chrome lining. The side profile of this hatchback is shiny where it has neatly carved wheel arches, window lining and roof rails also. At the rear, the tail light cluster holds high intensity brake lights with turn indicators. Both cars have foldable side view mirrors with integrated blinkers.

Interiors :
The interiors of the Maruti Swift comes with black dashboard which is decorated with silver accents that gives a impressive look. The 3-spoke multi-function steering wheel makes things easy as changing music tracks and this is aided by the steering mounted Bluetooth controls that makes seamless calling. Bluetooth only comes in top trim. The 2 DIN music system supports USB and AUX. It also includes few storage spaces like cup holders, glove box and more. Coming to the comfort level, seats are well cushioned, the rear lack legroom space which is not comfortable for long journey. The car gets 204 litres of boot space.
Coming to interiors of Hyundai Grand i10, the interiors comes with dual tone with black and beige color scheme. The AC vents gets chrome lining inserts. The 3 spoke multi-function steering wheel is identical to Elite i20 incorporating Bluetooth and audio controls. It also has 2 DIN audio system with 1GB of storage memory. Grand i10 is spacious for its size as compare to Swift. It is equipped with rear AC vents that regulate the air in the cabin. It has bigger boot than Swift which is 256 litres, sufficient for carrying enough luggage.

Engine and Performance :
Coming to the engine, Maruti Swift is powered by 1.3 L DDiS engine that generates 74 bhp power with 190 Nm of torque. On the other, Grand i10 gets 1.1 U2 CRDi that produces 70 bhp of power with torque of 160 Nm. The acceleration of Swift is linear and progressive. Hyundai Grand i10′s steering is light which is tilt adjustable and makes handling effortless whereas on the other hand, the steering wheel of the Swift is responsive in nature. Talking about fuel efficiency, Maruti Swift returns a mileage of 25.2 kmpl whereas Grand i10 returns 24 kmpl. But in terms of overall performance, Swift beats Grand i10.

Learn how to build an outdoor patio bar with an acid stained concrete top. In part 1 Pete will show you how to build a concrete bar top mold, pour concrete, create a trowel finish, and seal a concrete bar top. For the complete and free bar plans go to

For more info, project photos, and downloadable plans check out:

http://www.diypete.com/patiotable

Download Plans: https://gumroad.com/l/patiobar

*Note that these are affiliate links, meaning that when you buy something that is recommended below, it helps support the Channel. Thanks in advance!

*Tools Needed
Power Drill – http://amzn.to/1OxMfnt
Orbital Sander – http://amzn.to/1VUVNYy
Circular Saw – http://amzn.to/1OxNa7k
Table Saw (optional) – http://amzn.to/1X7Eje5
12″ Miter Saw (optional) – http://amzn.to/1VUVo8s
Jig Saw – http://amzn.to/1ZGFCTf
Bolt Cutter – http://amzn.to/1OxNcfe
Concrete Trowel – http://amzn.to/1LwkIAe

Measure and then cut the Melamine wood to size using a circular saw. Use a jig saw if needed to cut hard to reach areas. Cut the sidewalls for the concrete bar mold using a table saw or circular saw. I cut mine to 3 3/4 inches wide. This gave me a nice bold looking concrete top that was a total of 3 inches thick. The extra 3/4 of an inch is to compensate for the base of the mold.

Layout the sidewalls of the mold to make sure everything fits correctly. Attach the sidewalls to the base using 1 1/2 inch drywall screws. Pre-drill prior to inserting the screw.

Use a knife to cut 1 1/2 inch thick foam for the knockout in your mold. It will be slightly smaller than the mold. There is a 1 inch channel around the entire perimeter between the foam and the sidewalls. This will allow concrete to form around the foam and to create a lip. Your concrete counter will look like it is 3 inches thick throughout. However, it will only be 1 1/2 inches thick where the foam is placed. Thus, you’ll reduce the weight of the countertop dramatically and will not have to purchase as much concrete.

The foam I used had a metallic backing. Please note that any foam will work. I bought smaller project sized pieces and then used packing tape to piece them together. I also sealed all the edges of the foam with clear packing tape so the foam would release from the concrete easily.

Cut re-enforcement for the concrete down to size. It typically comes in 4×8 sheets at Home Depot. Seal the joints in your mold with 100% silicon caulk. Use silicon to adhere the foam to the base of the mold as well. Let the silicon dry before adding the concrete.

Mix up your concrete 1 bag at a time. I’d recommend using Quikrete Counter Top mix. If you can’t find countertop mix, Quikrete 5000 will work. The countertop mix consists of finer aggregate and is much easier to create a perfect hard trowel finish with. Mix the concrete with a hoe or a shovel. Add water until it is about a cookie dough type consistency.

Add the concrete to the mold. Use a shovel, bucket, or your hands to pack it into the counter top mold. Use your hands and fingers to pack the concrete into all areas of the mold. Make sure to wear rubber gloves whenever handling concrete. Fill the mold half full with concrete. Then place the re-enforcement in the concrete. Make sure it is as flat as possible. Then continue adding concrete until the mold is full.

Screed the concrete using a 2×4. Simply move the 2×4 in a saw-like motion back and forth. This will level out the concrete. Fill in low spots as needed and screed from one side to another until the concrete in the mold is as level as possible. Use a trowel to smooth the concrete for the first time. If you have a float, you can use it to help bring more “cream” to the surface which helps make the hard troweling process a bit easier.

This is one of the most important steps. I like to compare it to watching the grill so you get a perfect medium rare steak for dinner. Except with this, it takes a lot longer and you don’t get to eat a steak. Anyhow, let the concrete firm up for a few hours and check it every half hour because curing time will depend on temperature, humidity, the amount of water used, and the concrete mix. Use a finger to test the firmness. If it leaves a small dimple and you don’t get any water or concrete on your finger it is ready to remove the sidewalls and trowel.

Slowly remove the sidewalls. If the concrete sags make sure to put the sidewalls back on and to wait longer. Once the sidewalls are off you can smooth out the edges and fill any bugholes with extra concrete…
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Pete Sveen
1627 W Main Street Suite 182
Bozeman, Montana 59715